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Hairstyling/Advice with a Redken tintback formula


I am seeking an opinion with a redken formula that I am thinking of using on a new client.
She is a natural level 4 (1-10 hair color level) Currently she is a level 7 ash highlighted blonde with red/brassiness on zone 1. (a mess) She has fair skintone and hazel eyes. (I'm confident she can carry warmth)
Please click on the link below to view her new color of choice:

(jennifer lopez/warm caramel)
The original formula for this is color fusion 1oz 7av+ 1oz4gb with a 20 vol pro-oxide, plus highlights (the client does not want me to highlight her hair she just wants permanent color. she would like to grow her highlights out). Then the glaze used in the original formula above is shades eq 1oz 09gb buttercream + 1oz 07g saffron.
Now this is my plan to achieve a successful tintback:
Correct to remove brassiness with:
1oz09NA+1/2oz 06na+1/2oz shades eq clear with 2oz 10 vol developer(I will be correcting with shades eq cream. I believe this formula will restore the clients blonde color, maintain her level 7 and remove the brassiness)Please advise if I am incorrect.
Fill with: 1oz 07curry shades eq + 1oz 05g caramel shades shades eq (is this too dark of a fill formula for her? If so what would you recommend)
Color with: Color Fusion 1oz7n + 1oz4gb + 2oz 10vol developer. I will finish by using the same glaze as the original formula. (I am considering to maybe lighten up the glaze formula with 1oz crystal clear to ensure exact color cause the glosses tend to be dark..After viewing the photo above do you think I should lighten up the glaze?)
I have changed the 7av to 7n to avoid turning the highlights an unwanted color (since im coloring over them) plus im hoping they give a nice suttle look if they show through (do you think this is best? If not please advise). Throughout the whole ordeal I will treat her hair with Redken chemistry to add protein and moisture before and after the application. I am hoping this works. Please let me know your professional thoughts and input on all three formulas. Thank you in advance for your professional advice.

I am anxious to but i am always amazed how a colorist over thinks formulation.
Your explanation is too long and detailed to read.
Lets do it this way.
Send me a pic of this clients hair and i will come up with a simple formulation for you.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Upon sending me these images via text she just informed me that she tried to fix the brassiness on her own by applying shades eq cafe au lait gloss two weeks ago. So if her hair appears darker then mentioned I apologize.
My initial consultation with her was three weeks ago. She would "call"for an appt. So I guess this failed attempt prompted her to make an appt for this friday.

I dont see much difference from j lo's pic and your clients pic except the roots.
do u agree?

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I can see that the glaze has given her a similar tint. However the color under that is not good. Once the glaze fades we are dealing with a highlighted ash blonde mess with a red/brassy zone 1. She wants an overall permanent color over the highlights (hoping they would show through nicely)thats why I wanted to:
correct: 1oz09NA+1/2oz 06na+1/2oz shades eq clear with 2oz 10 vol developer
fill: 1oz 07curry shades eq + 1oz 05g caramel shades shades eq
color: Color Fusion 1oz7n + 1oz4gb + 2oz 10vol developer
glaze: shades eq 1/2oz 09gb buttercream + 1/2oz 07g saffron + 1oz crystal clear.
Do these formulas look like winners to you?

Looks to me like she needs a base breaker at the roots.
Say level 9 ash with 20 vol for 5 minutes.
Then i suggest a demi like wella color touch 8/3 3/4 and 7/7 1/4 all over.

You need to take charge with this client.
I hate when they try to be "kitchen beauticians".



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Don Orlando


25 years experience in all aspects of hair color. I am the Color Director at a well known NYC salon. Member of the American Board Certified Hair Colorists. I will try to answer any and all questions pertaining to hair color and hair color correction in a direct and timely fashion.


25 yrs coloring hair with 15 yrs color director at a large NYC hair salon.

Inter-Couffiere and Wella International

Robert Fiance Beauty Institute NYC, Goldwell Institute and Wella USA

Awards and Honors
American Board of Certified Hair Colorists

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