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Hairstyling/color correction


My client had previously highlighted hair with brown washed out lowlights (they had turned almost orange) Her natural level is a 6. The blonde turned out great. However, at the same time I applied a level 6N w/ 10 vol on all the hair that wasn't in the foils. This remaining hair turned very warm for the first 4 inches from the scalp and extremely ashy everywhere else. I am not sure how to best fix this issue. I have never had anything like this happen before and I am totally stumped.

 Unfortunately, this is a difficult one to fix. I will assume that the warm result was on her natural hair and the ashen result was on previous highlights. Here is the issue. When tinting back from blonde, that hair needs to be repigmentized (filled) with warmth before the darker colour can be applied to avoid exactly what you experienced. The standard is to use a combination of red and gold based colour a level lighter than the final result you are going to, as a stain. If using permanent colour you would have mixed a level 7 red /gold series with double 5 volume. What this means is that you would make 5 volume if you don't have, by mixing 10 volume with equal parts of water (preferably distilled) and then mix your colour with double the amount of developer that your colour calls for. If it is normally mixed equal colour and develooper, then mix 1 part colour and 2 parts 5 volume developer. This will make the colour more like a stain. Once the foils were in place, you would apply this stain to the blonde ends for 10-15 minutes and towel off with a damp towel, then apply your 6N from root to end and process. This can even be done with a demi permanent colour. Unless you work very quickly or have someone working with you, you may want to foil with lower developer volume to allow more processing time while working.
Althouhg I don't usually suggest speciific products here, a much simpler solution to this would be Italy HairFashion Vivly semi permanent colour, Titian. Put it in a spray mist bottle and spray onto the blonde, work in with fingers or comb through for even distribution and coverage, leave for a minute or two and apply the 6N root to ends right over it. Simple and works beautifully.
 Sorry to say it would be difficult to fix this now, as you wouldn't be able to work around the blonde to retone the brown. And going whole head would ruin the blonde. The only fix for this would be a total redo, sadly, unless you can foil out the blonde with conditioner in thew foils and retone the remaining hair.
Best of luck to you.
Stephe (hairman)


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I have been a Licensed cosmetologist in New York state for over 26 years, and am well versed in many areas of the cosmetology and appearance enhancement profession.Specialties however, are hair colour, corrective colour and permanent waving,including the chemical and technical aspects of these services and their effects on the hair.I`m glad to consult on any problems you are having concerning your hair.If I don`t have the answer, I`ll try to get it for you.


I've been licensed for cosmetology in New York State since 1974.I am a salon owner, and very active with the National Cosmetology Association and New York State Cosmetology Associaiton.I am one of only a few hundred people in the United States to be certi

For the field of cosmetology, to become acredited as a state educator for the New York State Education Committee or HairAmerica, you must submit to a full day exam, encompassing written exam, practical segments, lesson plans and presentations to prove our knowledge and teaching skills.The same applies for HAirAmerica.I also becam board certified as a coulourist in the same way, by submitting to a full day exam process.I am also antionally certified for cosmetology by the National Cosmetology Ass

I have received several educational awards from New York State for my educational work on a state and national level.
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