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Hairstyling/Oily roots-tangly hair problem

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Question
Hi Dana,

It's been 2 years now that my hair is in a really bad condition and I have no clue how to fix it.
My roots get extremely oily in less than two days while the rest of hair is an awful, tangly and frizzy mess. I have been dying my hair for 5 years a medium copperish brown, but I don't think this is the issue because they are not bleached and I usually use low-ammonia supermarket brands. I also get a haircut every 6 weeks but the problem still persists...
The problem is, most products available in my country(I live in Cyprus)are targeted towards those who have either oily or dry/damaged hair. I tried almost all supermarket brands and a couple of professional products and they provided little to no relief. Some even left nasty build-up in my hair and made the problem worse..

Do you have any clue on how to fix this issue? Can you recommend a good product or series of products that really balances hair moisture without weighing hair down?

Answer
Hi Marina,

Are you using permanent color? Are you pulling it through the ends every time?

First of all, once your hair has been colored with permanent color, you don't want to pull it through the ends every time. I don't care what the box says. You'll want to switch to a demi color if you need to refresh the ends. If there's still a bit of color left on the ends, but it's faded and needs to be refreshed, the same color in a demi permanent formula will stick and last just as long if not longer. Every time you overlap the color, you break down 10 - 15% of the disulfide bonds in your hair. They're the muscle and when they're broken, you have damage. It sometimes can take a while, but eventually, you're going to have issues.

As for a specific regimen,without being able to see your hair all I can do is make some general recommendations. If you've found a product that works on your scalp ok but is too drying for your ends, you can always apply conditioner to the dry hair first, then just shampoo the scalp. Many of my clients with longer hair, don't shampoo anything past the shoulder every time.

For oily scalp, many of my clients prefer to use a dry shampoo between regular shampoos to keep the oil at bay so they don't dry out their longer ends. You simply spray it onto the scalp and massage it in. I sell Redken, KMS, Amica and Alterna brands the most depending on my clients preferences but I'm not sure what products you have available to you in Cyprus.

The bottom line is, you need to treat each issue separately. You might consider having a professional conditioning regimen done when you get your hair cut. That way, your designer can customize a treatment for your specific issues and all you have to do in between visits is maintain it with the proper home regimen. I prefer to do the protein treatments for my clients and have them do the moisturizing at home. I always prescribe moisture to my oily scalped clients by the way. Your scalp is oily because it doesn't have enough water. I know that sounds counter-intuitive but it's a matter of restoring balance. Since conditioners are designed to add elements back INTO your hair and shampoo is designed to remove impurities, you can always condition first, then shampoo after to remove any surface emollients that may weigh your hair down. Your dry ends NEED the conditioner so if you choose to condition first, then shampoo, be sure to reapply the conditioner to the midshaft and ends and just avoid your scalp area.  

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Dana Sear

Expertise

I can answer questions on all types of hairstyling, cutting, designing, coloring, corrective color, perming techniques,product knowledge, and in general, anything that has anything to do with hair. PLEASE NOTE: I am a professional designer and trainer. I do hair and teach advanced classes to licensed designers. I do not, under any circumstances, recommend doing chemical services including but not limited to relaxers, perms, color, highlights, or any other chemical service at home. I will not tell you how to use professional products nor will I tell you how to do your color at home. What I CAN do is arm you with current and accurate information and help you to be able to better communicate with your stylist/designer. I can also help you with what you need to do at home to maintain, protect, and treat your hair.

Experience

I have been a designer and educator for 31 years. I have been a salon consultant for Redken, affiliate trainer for ABBA Pure and Natural, Director of Education for my own salon and am currently a member of the design team and advanced trainer for my company. I specialize in corrective color, perming and style support, and image updates (make overs)

Education/Credentials
I have been actively licensed for 31 years. I actively participate in and teach cutting, perming, coloring, and business building classes. I am a REDKEN Certified Haircolorist, and REDKEN Specialist. I also have extensive training in Structure in Motion Cutting Techniques and Tigi Cutting.

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