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Hairstyling/Grey magic

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Question
Hi Dana,
Thank you for your great advice.  You have been very helpful.
My last question is : is 20 drops of grey magic the amount
If the directions say 10 drops per ounce of color . I add it after I mix together
Color with developer.  The drops is what confuses me.  When Mixed it is 4 oz .
It says it doesn't change the color  and you can add it to any hair color.  Confused about drops
Thanks

Answer
Color, not formula. So, 20 drops because you use 2 oz of color. You are adding missing background that gray hair doesn't contribute. The color the hair IS affects the color it BECOMES. Gray hair doesn't  contribute anything to the end result. Here. This may help:

Colors and increases coverage even the most resistant gray hair
Compatible with any brand of hair color and all additives
Extends the life of hair color, decreases fading

Ardell Gray Magic is a unique way to cover resistant gray hair, and bring vibrancy and intensity to ALL hair color.

Gray Magic Color Additive can be added to ANY color formula to achieve vibrant color and exceptional gray coverage. Formulated to help hair color penetrate deeper into cortex. Is also great for toning down ash (green) tones. Adds "punch" to red hair color formulations and helps to alleviate chlorine discolorations.

Gray Magic work works because gray hair is the result of the loss of red and yellow color pigment. Gray Magic adds concentrate red and yellow with wetting agents to replace the lost color pigment and moisture, to 'lock-in' hair color. When added to shampoos or conditioners, will prevent fading and oxidation for tinted red or warm colors (10 drops per ounce of shampoo or conditioner).

What's Gray Magic?
Gray Magic is a hair coloring additive that is formulated to allow the haircolorist to adequately cover gray hair and make colors last longer.
Why does Gray Magic work?
Gray hair is the result of the loss of red and yellow color pigment. Gray Magic adds concentrate red and yellow with wetting agents to replace the lost color pigment and moisture, to "lock-in" hair color.
Why is Gray Magic effective on covering resistant gray hair?
The loss of red and yellow, and the cuticle being very close to the cortex (preventing penetration of color) are factors of resistant gray hair. Gray Magic mixed with color and peroxide will lift the cuticle away from the cortex, allowing penetration. When color is then applied superior coverage is obtained, and up to 90% absorption of hair color.
Why does Gray Magic downplay green tones?
Most of the manufactured ash tone hair colors contain the blue and yellow. Green is the result of blue and yellow. Gray Magic adds the third primary color, resulting in a neutral blend of blue, yellow and red.
Can I add Gray Magic to Loving Care and other "non peroxide" colors?
Definitely YES. Gray Magic was formulated with wetting agents which allow it to be mixed with any "non peroxide" color.
Would I add Gray Magic to a temporary rinse?
NO! Temporary rinse merely coat the cuticle. Gray Magic would enter the cortex and be in direct conflict with rinse.
Can Gray Magic be mixed with Unred and Gold Magic?
Yes! Gray Magic is compatible with ALL colors and ALL additives.
Will Gray Magic speed up or slow down processing?
No! When using Gray Magic in the formula continue with your usual technique and timing.

I'd like to add here that although ARDELL claims that Gray Magic is safe for ALL colors and ALL additives, keep this in mind: If you go against the manufacturer's directions, ESPECIALLY a professional line (which you aren't using so it doesn't really apply here) by adding anything that brand didn't manufacture itself, it will not honor any warranties, expressed or implied. So, for example, say you somehow are able to purchase Matrix SoColor. If you add Gray Magic to it, and something goes wrong, Matrix will not honor any type of warranty on the color. The same rule applies to me in the salon. If I add anything to the color lines I use, and someone hates their hair and tries to sue me, I'd better be able to afford a good attorney because neither my salon or the manufacturer of the color lines I use will back me.

That being said, you've already been coloring your hair for a long time. Just know that allergies and sensitivities to products can pop up all of a sudden at any given time so don't add 40 drops if it calls for 20. If you've already been using 15 drops and have been successful, I don't think I'd mess with that. Don't fix what isn't broken. :c)

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Dana Sear

Expertise

I can answer questions on all types of hairstyling, cutting, designing, coloring, corrective color, perming techniques,product knowledge, and in general, anything that has anything to do with hair. PLEASE NOTE: I am a professional designer and trainer. I do hair and teach advanced classes to licensed designers. I do not, under any circumstances, recommend doing chemical services including but not limited to relaxers, perms, color, highlights, or any other chemical service at home. I will not tell you how to use professional products nor will I tell you how to do your color at home. What I CAN do is arm you with current and accurate information and help you to be able to better communicate with your stylist/designer. I can also help you with what you need to do at home to maintain, protect, and treat your hair.

Experience

I have been a designer and educator for 31 years. I have been a salon consultant for Redken, affiliate trainer for ABBA Pure and Natural, Director of Education for my own salon and am currently a member of the design team and advanced trainer for my company. I specialize in corrective color, perming and style support, and image updates (make overs)

Education/Credentials
I have been actively licensed for 31 years. I actively participate in and teach cutting, perming, coloring, and business building classes. I am a REDKEN Certified Haircolorist, and REDKEN Specialist. I also have extensive training in Structure in Motion Cutting Techniques and Tigi Cutting.

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