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QUESTION: Hi have hair color ques. I am r3 to have maybe 20 percent gray in my hair not very much. My ques is I asked for a 7 in chi permanent hair color and stylist suggested mixing a 6 and a 7 well my hair came out more like a medium dark brown. He also used coloranse by Coldwell on ends as he said it was not healthy to use permanent color on ends. How can I fix it to a 7 golden light brown without damaging it? My stylist says it will lighten up which I know it will but not that much. Also first time I ever got it but stylist shampooed my hair before coloring. Told him I've always had hair color put in when dry he said with thicker hair if it's wet color slides in better which I heard opposite hair adheres better when hair hasn't been washed for a few days. Please clue me in have u ever heard of that? Is it better for stylist to wash my hair before color

ANSWER: Hi Maria,

First of all, ALL color works best in CLEAN hair. It has never adhered better to dirty hair. That is an old rule from probably 50 years ago when they didn't know how to put emollients, conditioners and buffers in the color. We didn't need the hair dirty because he color worked better. We needed the hair dirty because the products were so harsh that they would irritate the scalp.  In the last 40 years or so, that is no longer true.  

Once permanent color has been used, Demi permanent color is often a better choice. Damage occurs during lightening so if the color just needs to be refreshed, we use permanent color to the lifting and depositing on the new growth and a Demi color for the rest. When done properly, Demi color will last just as long if not longer than permanent color when it's applied to previously colored hair.  I almost never have to refresh the ends of my clients' hair because I don't damage it every time I color it.

As far as getting lighter, you either have to wait for it to fade or you have to use a chemical process to lighten it.  Excessive moisture and hot water will fade it quickly but I don't think you're wanting to fade it as much as get it lighter.  I would go back to your stylist and tell him you are not happy with the color and oh want it lighter.

As for applying color to wet hair, I prefer to work with dry hair, but I know many who apply color to very long or very thick hair when it's damp.  It will not hurt to apply to damp hair and it is MUCH better to apply color to CLEAN hair.   



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi they used a 6 and a half mixed a 6 and 7 but it looks like a med brown not a light brown. Stylist used permanent chi color on roots and semi perm goldwell colors e on ends. Please advise what number I would need for a light brown?

Answer
You're not going to be able to apply another color to get it lighter. Color will not lift color predictably.  Removing color and then toning, assuming it's light enough under the color you see, is your only option. You can't just buy a permanent color and get your hair lighter. And I can't tell you what color to put on it once you've lightened it with lightener or color remover, because the toner is formulated based on what color the hair is after it's been lightened.   This is now a corrective color situation and I don't recommend doing this yourself under any circumstances.  

Since the color is unacceptable, you need to go back to the salon where it was done originally. I bought my home fixing mistakes people made. Both at home and in other salons. Trust me when I tell you that if you feel like 1/2 to 1 level darker is enough of a problem that you need to fix it, it's not worth the risk of trying to fix it yourself.  Especially if you don't want to have to cut off a bunch of damage.  

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Dana Sear

Expertise

I can answer questions on all types of hairstyling, cutting, designing, coloring, corrective color, perming techniques,product knowledge, and in general, anything that has anything to do with hair. PLEASE NOTE: I am a professional designer and trainer. I do hair and teach advanced classes to licensed designers. I do not, under any circumstances, recommend doing chemical services including but not limited to relaxers, perms, color, highlights, or any other chemical service at home. I will not tell you how to use professional products nor will I tell you how to do your color at home. What I CAN do is arm you with current and accurate information and help you to be able to better communicate with your stylist/designer. I can also help you with what you need to do at home to maintain, protect, and treat your hair.

Experience

I have been a designer and educator for 31 years. I have been a salon consultant for Redken, affiliate trainer for ABBA Pure and Natural, Director of Education for my own salon and am currently a member of the design team and advanced trainer for my company. I specialize in corrective color, perming and style support, and image updates (make overs)

Education/Credentials
I have been actively licensed for 31 years. I actively participate in and teach cutting, perming, coloring, and business building classes. I am a REDKEN Certified Haircolorist, and REDKEN Specialist. I also have extensive training in Structure in Motion Cutting Techniques and Tigi Cutting.

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