Heating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVAC/Baseboard heating is SO loud


QUESTION: Our baseboard heating has become ridiculously loud. It sounds like 1000 gallons of water rushing through pipes and wakes me up every night from the noise. This has not happened before in the 8 years we have lived here. Anyway, I am assuming it's air in the pipes, but the baseboard heater pipes themselves have no vents to "bleed" so I assume you have to do it via the boiler itself. There is a pipe on it marked "vent" that is open on one end and a flip switch (looks like a bell) and a red wheel around that area. I don't want to go fooling around with anything unless I know what I'm doing...can you help?

The boiler is a Weil-McLean Gold Oil Boiler model #P-WTGO-3. Thanks!!!

ANSWER: Andrea,

You may be low on water, you should have an automatic water feeder that adds water as needed to maintain boiler pressure somewhere around 12-15 PSI, or you may have a manual water feed , There should be a air purger that a expansion tanks hooks to it on top of the air purger there should be a vent . if it has a cap on it ,it should be loosened to let air escape, while it's running.To me what your describing is a manual type air purger " flip switch  looks like a bell ".  residential systems suppose to be self purging , and water is added as needed automatically .

In closing I would verify if you have a automatic water feeder and that it's working . ( goggle  " WATTS automatic water feeder "  for residential hydronic heat ) to see what they look like. Then check to see what your pressure is , Check the temerature/pressure gauge above the burner  ( hopefully it works ) , it's not uncommon that they give incorrect readings or are stuck, you can tap on it to see if it's sticks in one position. Locate your expansion tank and tap on it , there should be air on one side and water on the other, so if you tap on the whole length of the tank and it sounds like a solid mass of water ,the tank is no good, you should hear hollow sound on one side and solid water column on other side of the expansion tank. ( goggle expansion tanks to see how they work ) on the end that is not connected there should be a cap and a bicycle type vent on it. Do not remove cap and bleed the air out of that expansion tank ,as you will damage the tank. It is precharged at the factory. Also google your model number and brand and it shows a PDF file operators manual. It also shows a troubleshooting chart

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QUESTION: We have an automatic water feeder (the bell thing, I looked it up online) and the expansion tank sounds ok, clinky on the bottom, thunky on the top. The PSI looks to be below 10 and I tapped on the gauge and it didn't move. I am afraid to fiddle with anything so I guess I better call the service guy...at least I know what to tell him and won't sound totally stupid. Thanks for your thorough and quick response!!!

ANSWER: What is the bell thing called ? , I would like to know what the correct name is. Also depending on what type of water feeder you have you can lift the lever to manually fill it ,until you get to 12- 15 PSI such as the WATTS brand

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QUESTION: It's called a reducing valve. I lifted it up and the boiler started up and scared me so I put it back down again. It's not a WATTS brand.

The boiler came on ,probably because you were filling it with the cold water and the temperature of the boiler got lower than the set point and just came on to reheat the cold water.It's probably a combination pressure reducer/water feeder, ,you could just turn the power switch off to the boiler while feeding, then try to manually fill, just dont go over 12/13 PSI , if you go to far ,when the water gets hot it will expand and the pressure will increase and the excess water will overflow from your preset pressure relief valve. ( the pressure relief valve will reseat and stop the water from discharging after it lowers the pressure,)  If you do not feel confident to add the water, certainly call for service.  

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40+ years diversified experience.An HVAC/Refrigeration Self Employed Contractor since 1986. NATE Certifield. Answer questions pertaining to Residential and Commercial Air Conditioning , Warm Air Heating, Heat Pump systems.Mechanical and Electrical troubleshooting of these systems.Be as detailed as possible when describing problem.Packaged unit or split systems.No appliance questions.


Installation and Troubleshooting, Mechanical and Electrical, in following areas, Refrigeration ( Walk In and Reach In Coolers and Freezers ) Commercial Roof Top and Packaged Heating/Cooling ( Natural Gas,Propane, Electric, and Heat Pumps ) Computer Room Air Conditoning Systems,Commercial Residential Packaged and Split Systems Air Conditoning and Heat Pumps.Warm Air Oil , Natural and Propane Gas Heating systems.

Graduated from Private Technical School in 1975. An HVAC/Refrigeration Contractor . Have Unlimited Heating/Piping and Cooling Contractor License.Limited Sheetmetal Contractors License.NATE Certifield. York Certifield Master Heat Pump Technician 1986. Served 33 years combination Active Duty Air Force , Air Force Reserves and Air National Guard in the HVAC/Refrigeration Shop/Mechanical Shop. Troubleshooting/Installing HVAC/Refrigeration Equiptment Worldwide. Retiring in 2003 as a Senior NCO ,and a Mechanical Superintendent.

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