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Heating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVAC/Unit no longer heating/cooling properly.


We purchased our house 4 years ago. It has a janitrol heat/air unit in the house. (All electric) We had freon put in the first summer we lived here. It was fine until this past summer when it started freezing up. We had more freon added, they also checked for a leak, and my husband cleaned the coils.  It never cooled the house below 80 degrees and the repair guys had no answer for us. They said they couldn't find any problems.  This is the first winter it hasn't kept our house warm.  It is not getting above 64 degrees. The vents are blowing, but the air is not really warm. How can we fix this?


If you have electric heat as the 2nd stage heat it may not be coming on,due to a bad thermal overload on the heating coil or you have a bad heating element, or the heat relay may not be coming on. Again this applies if you have electric heat strips for the 2nd stage. Your Heat Pump is the first stage heat, and typically you should have a 20 degree differential between the return air temperature and a supply air temperature. a higher  higher outdoor air temperature you will get a higher temperature differential.Very low outdoor temperature ,say 20-25 degree you may only get a 15-17 degree temp. diff. Also check that your return duct is sealed and not letting any cold OD air infiltrating and mixing in with your return ( room temperature air ) a simple test to check if your return is sealed, would be to turn off your heat and place the fan switch to ON position from auto, the blower fan should come on only. Then check your return at a return grille and a supply register grille, the temperature should be the same, if it's off by more than a degree or two you probably have cold air being pulled into the return duct which would lower the discharge air even further , making the system run longer.

You also have a leak that they cannot find , so you just may be low on refrigerant, If your outdoor unit coil is completely iced over, then your not going into a defrost mode to clear the ice off the OD coil. Having excess ice on the OD coil also lowers your discharge air temperature.

You do not say how old the system is and if it ever worked correctly from day one. How did it work 3 or 4 years ago ?   Who is to say the system worked completely satisfacterly from day one . The system could be too small for the residence or your ductwork may not be designed correctly for your house or tonnage of the system. Certainly you have a refrigerant leak as one problem,  

Heating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVAC

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40+ years diversified experience.An HVAC/Refrigeration Self Employed Contractor since 1986. NATE Certifield. Answer questions pertaining to Residential and Commercial Air Conditioning , Warm Air Heating, Heat Pump systems.Mechanical and Electrical troubleshooting of these systems.Be as detailed as possible when describing problem.Packaged unit or split systems.No appliance questions.


Installation and Troubleshooting, Mechanical and Electrical, in following areas, Refrigeration ( Walk In and Reach In Coolers and Freezers ) Commercial Roof Top and Packaged Heating/Cooling ( Natural Gas,Propane, Electric, and Heat Pumps ) Computer Room Air Conditoning Systems,Commercial Residential Packaged and Split Systems Air Conditoning and Heat Pumps.Warm Air Oil , Natural and Propane Gas Heating systems.

Graduated from Private Technical School in 1975. An HVAC/Refrigeration Contractor . Have Unlimited Heating/Piping and Cooling Contractor License.Limited Sheetmetal Contractors License.NATE Certifield. York Certifield Master Heat Pump Technician 1986. Served 33 years combination Active Duty Air Force , Air Force Reserves and Air National Guard in the HVAC/Refrigeration Shop/Mechanical Shop. Troubleshooting/Installing HVAC/Refrigeration Equiptment Worldwide. Retiring in 2003 as a Senior NCO ,and a Mechanical Superintendent.

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