Heating, Air Conditioning, Fridge, HVAC/Aux heat - heat pump
Hi Joe and thanks for your service!
We moved into a new house in Jul 2014. I have a FB4CNF042L00ABAA made in Feb 2014 and installed in May 2014.
My heating bills are on average $135 more than my neighbors. Same house and heating units. Water heater and dryer are gas. Number of people living in the homes are 2. So, I've narrowed it down to the heatpump in the second floor attic, listed above.
The 3 heat strips are all "on" when Aux heat is called. The sequencers turn then on and off as a unit until the thermostat is satisfied. The is no way to separate them due to the factory lug wring them together... Short of a pair of dikes :)
The thermostat program: 65 at night to 69 -04:45 to 0800 then back to 65 until 1700 then back to 69 until 23:00 and then back to 65 repeating the cycle. NOVAC elec company states this is the best program to save $$.
Being that the Aux heat turns on all 3 heat strips numerous times throughout the day... I think I've discovered why my electrical bill is so high. With that, why would they link all three heat strips together and not give an option to use 1 or 2 heat strips for Aux heat and use all 3 heat strips for Emergency heat when needed?
So, I now I leave my heat at 69 degrees 24x7...
I appreciate your thoughts on this... Oh yea, I disconnected the third heat strip and will reconnect it if needed.
Do you also keep your thermostat exactly at the same setting as your neighbor , even thou you both have the same equiptment. I would say no , so chances are either you or theirs electric bill would be higher. Typically when you run your heat pump as first stage , when it cannot satisfy the thermostat setting the electric heat comes on when 2nd stage calls , so yes you should be able to bring on only part of the electric heat which would be a normal situation as your still getting heat from the HP . You can also stage your 2nd stage heat to come on basing on outdoor air temperature . I believe the Honeywell Focus Pro 8000 series 8320 let you do this it has a OD sensor hookup and up to 3 stages of heat . ( of course you may have to pull extra thermostat wires ) The only time you should bring on all your electric heat would be when you use the emergency heat position. Also I would not set back the thermostat no more than 2 degree or not even set it back unless you are going on vacation for more than a few days. The most expensive cost is when your electric heat comes on. Depending on size of your heater element ,if you have a 15 KW heater that draws 58- 60 amps. , a 10 KW draws 38- 40 amps. At aprox 220 volts. A typical outdoor heat pump section draws depending on size 8-13 amps. give or take . So you can see the big difference.
Your HP refrigerant charge may be off slightly ,so your discharge air temperature ( without the 2nd stage calling ) may be slightly lower than your neighbor(s) and due to that your bringing on the electric heat a little sooner or running the HP a little longer to satisfy . You can also check to see if you have a demand defrost or a time/ temperature defrost . A demand defrost would go into defrost less than a time/ temperature defrost ,which would keep from energizing part of your electric heat while in defrost . As your still under the labor warranty have them check your refrigerant charge in the summer according to manufacture spec. For your subcooling before the warranty expires. You can also double check your return duct in the attic to make sure it's tightly sealed and your not sucking in any cold surrounding air into your return and mixing with the return .
In closing yes you can stage your electric heater using a outdoor thermostat or use a three stage heat setting thermostat