Expert: Eric Campion - 8/3/2005

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I have an Amana model AGS781LL gas range: the oven was not lighting, I replaced the "igniter" and it workd ok for several days; I discoverd that one of the igniter hook wires has inadvertently came the oven heat shield and subsequently melted and shorted out.
Now the oven is not working again. I need some trouble-shooting the unit.
Has the short blown the control valve circuit or smoe other component in the oven contol?
Answer -
Hello Ted,
    Are the wires currently burned, did you check the wires to see if they were brittle near the area of the short?   Do you have 110 volts at the ignitor?   Let us know the answer to those questions and we will do our best to help you.   Thank you for your request, I will wait to hear from you.  Ann

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Ann, Thnnx for the quick reponse..

1. the wires are not burned; the short circuit occured at the "wire-nut" which melted when it contacted the heat shield. There is no brittleness along the lenght of wire.
2. There is zero volts across the ignitor.

Ted
Answer -
Hello Ted,
         Measure resistance across the safety valve.  Shorting may have caused the valve to open and not completing the circuit to light the ignitor.  Let me know what you find?

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion

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I'll measure the resistance across the valve; but at this point, there is NO gas flowing but as you say the circuit may be opened..I'll be back to you.

Thnxx, Ted
Answer -
I'll be waiting.....
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Eric,

The "safety" valve has two sets of wires, "bake" and "broil". I measured the resistance across the bake terminals and read zero ohms. I have not measured across the broil terminals.

One needs to be an acrobat to get at those wires...especially hard for an "Old-Fart" like me!

If you could provide an email address, I could forward a copy of the Amana Schematic.

Thnxx Ted
Answer -
Hello Ted,
         I really don't need a schematic as I have been repairing for a long time and know the systems intimately.  Basically when you set the controls on the electronic clock a relay closes and current goes to the ignitor, out of the ignitor and to the oven safety valve.  When the ignitor pulls 3.2 - 3.6 amps the safety valve opens and allows gas to flow through the burner tube assembly.  The ignitor stays lit until the oven temperature has reached the desired temperature according to the oven sensor connected to the electronic clock assembly.  The relay closes and current stops.  The ignitor goes off and now the current draw reduces and the oven safety valve closes. When you say there is ZERO OHMS........across the safety valve, do you mean the circuit is open?  If you need further assistance, feel free to email us at sales@affordableappliance.com or you can visit our website at http://www.affordableappliance.com   Keep in mind we do stock 1000's of Major Home Appliance Parts both New and Good Quality Used.
Please Don't forget to rate us.....Eric & Ann Campion  

Eric,

I actually mean it shows a short across the "bake" terminals....
Answer -
Sounds like it is shorted out.  Get me the manufactures number off the Model Number lable and I'll get you a part number for the oven safety valve.  THe number I need begins with the letter P.

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion
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Wed Aug 3

The Mfg Number is P1141275NLL.

Techs from Amana service claim the problem lies in the "controller".

note from "Amana" (I had asked them for info more than a week ago)

"Dear Customer,
There isn't a fuse for the ignitor.If you don't have voltage then you will ned to check to see if the voltage is coming out of the control.If there is no voltage from the control then I suspect the control will need to be replaced."


THnxx for all of you excellent expertise. As I scanned the schematic and read your technical explanation it seemed to fall into place for me.

Ted  

Answer
Good Morning again Ted,
         Let's try and close this additional email and copy and paste all the information that is different into one.  We are going to get confused as I will not know what I have told you in the other email and our correspondence might get confusing for you and me.  While you are here you may as well rate our service as I do  not get paid for my offer of help to this forum.  Keeping it in one email will make it simple on both of us.  I have done some look-up on your unit and There is only one part number for your safety valve.  It does not cross anywhere and I only have it available in new.  While you are testing, can you get me all the numbers off your current safety valve and put the informationin the other email?

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric Campion