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About Steve Major (Owner - Major Design Group)
Expertise
I can answer any questions regarding the design and execution of home improvement and remodeling. This includes trade-specific questions (how-to) in all major building trades: framing, foundations, site prep, electrical, HVAC, plumbing, water treatment, interior finishing, trim & cabinetwork, exterior finishing, roofing, siding. PLEASE indicate your state or region, so I can provide the best possible answer.

Experience
25 years experience in home improvement design and construction, all hands-on, including the construction of dozens of single-family homes and hundreds of remodeling projects in the northeastern US.

Publications
Author: "Architectural Woodwork - Details for Construction" published by Van Nostrand Reinhold (now Wiley).

Education/Credentials
BS -- Cornell University

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Home Improvement/Repair > Home Improvement--General > 1920's basement

Home Improvement--General - 1920's basement


Expert: Steve Major (Owner - Major Design Group) - 9/26/2007

Question
I am looking to purchase a home that was originally built in the 1920's.  the entire house was redone in 2007 with exception of the foundation and basement. The basement consists of dirt and rocks/stones. I am interested in some ideas on how to make this into a useable space without it becoming a major expense.

Answer
Rebecca,

The best and most sound option is to pour a concrete floor in the basement, then proceed with adding finishes to whatever extent you want.

If headroom is a problem this may entail the removal of several inches of soil first.  Pour at least a 3" thick reinforced concrete slab.  It can be done in sections if necessary.  Place a 6 mil poly vapor barrier down first, to discourage moisture migration into the slab.  If radon is a problem in your area you should place perforated plastic piping in the soil at regular intervals, all connected to a standpipe for a future mitigation fan system.  Then lay a thin layer of crushed stone (#1 or #2) on the floor before installing the poly.

Avoid using moisture-problematic finish materials.  These include any carpeting (removeable area rugs are OK) and any drywall within 2-3 feet of the floor.

Best of luck and let me know if you have additional questions.

--Steve Major

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