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About Bill Rodgers
Expertise
I have years of experience dealing with water infiltration issues associated with windows and doors. I have been a certified EIFS installer and am familiar with all types of stucco and masonry veneers. I can help you select the best windows and doors for any residence or multifamily building.

Experience
I've been a building contractor since 1977. Prior to that time I was the building official for Frederick County Virginia. I'm currently licensed in six states including: Oregon, Arizona, California, Hawaii, New Jersey and Florida. My primary business is solving and correcting water infiltration problems in residential structures.

Education/Credentials
Bachelor of Science from the University of Maryland, 1972. I am an accredited instructor for the Installation Masters Institute. I regularly teach window and door installers how to be Certified Master Installers of windows and doors. The Installation Masters Institute is currently licensed to and administered by Architectural Testing Inc. for the American Architectural Manufacturer's Association.

You are here: Experts > Home/Garden > Home Improvement/Repair > Home Improvement--General > Garage Stucco Repair

Home Improvement--General - Garage Stucco Repair

Expert: Bill Rodgers - 10/28/2009

Question
QUESTION: Hi Bill,

I have posted questions before on this project and thank you for the help.

I removed the bottom 24" of stucco around the base of my garage to put in weep screed (the builder did not use a weep screed and applied the stucco all the way to the ground creating drainage problems and, if I understand correctly, lime build-up and stucco problems).

I removed the stucco to the wooden studs about 20” up the wall, then chipped away stucco to expose about two lath eyelets of the original lath and 4" of paper around the entire perimeter of the repair area (40 linear feet).

My next intentions are as follows:

1) Slide metal flashing 4” under original lath and paper.

2) Slide new paper under the flashing.

3) Attach new lath on top of exposed lath, flashing and new paper, wiring the new lath to the exposed original lath.

4) Get it inspected.

5) Apply scratch coat.

My plan is to get the scratch coat applied to keep the new (and old) paper out of the sun and weather, then to complete the brown and texture coats in early summer after I complete the remaining construction work I am doing on my house which will impact the stucco in various other places.

Do you see a problem with leaving the repair area (24" at base along 40 feet of garage wall) with only the scratch coat for about 6 months? I live in Huntington Beach, CA which has very little rainfall (less than 12 inches).

Thanks Bill.

ANSWER: Hi Again Ron,

Sorry for taking so long with this answer. Unfortunately my 100 pound Canine, Kamden, died on Friday. He was my constant companion for twelve years. It's pretty well set me back on everything except the absolute basic stuff.

Your plan about leaving the scratch coat open for six months is a good one. You should have no problems with it.

Thank You

Bill Rodgers

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Bill,

I wanted to be sure on something. While I know the new paper goes under the existing paper. Does the new lath go under the existing lath, or on top of it?

Does the new lath need to be wired to the existing lath or just nailed in place along the studs using furring nails? I would imagine the top furring nail needs to be as high up on the lath as possible, then every X inches down the stud (what is X?).

Thank you Bill.

Answer
Hi Ron,

It's only important that the new wire lath lap the old lath. Under or over is not important. I would wire the two layers together only so much as to assure that they rest easily in the plane of the scratch coat.

Regarding the nailing of the wire lath. You should nail every stud with a vertical spacing of six inches.

Best of luck.

Bill Rodgers

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