AboutLen Kroll Expertise I can provide advice on the proper design, construction, maintenance, restoration, preservation, cleaning and waterproofing of log homes. Questions concerning proper cleaning, sealing, staining and waterproofing are within my area of expertise. My expertise includes new construction and existing log structures. Chinking application or restoration, log replacement and repair are also in my area of expertise.
Question I am attemping to build a post and beam cabin in northern ontario. I have some standing white pine on my property that measure anywhere from 3 ft to four feet around. I am going to use this for my post and beam can I build the cabin with undryied wood and let it dry standing? or how long do i have to let it dry for? I have read some articals that say you can build the frame and let it dry standing?
Answer Todd,
You can erect the frame and let it dry standing. White pine is fairly stable but there is risk that some movement can occur. Also, there is risk that checking will occur and some could be significant; this could be cosmetic or present moisture control issues.
If you try to dry the logs before erecting the same things might occur and the risk of bowing, crooking, twisting, etc. is much higher because nothing is held in place. As a result you could lose significant material due to it becoming unusable.
By drying before erecting you can hand pick the best materials to put in your cabin and you can avoid problematic checking, but you might have significant downfall from degradation of the timbers. Drying timbers of that size would take 6 mo. to a year at least, and that is in good drying conditions.
You didn't say if the trees on your property are still alive or standing dead. If dead they are probably already dry, if the bark has fallen off. If alive you will have to de-bark them to get the drying process started. With the bark still on it will take a LONG time to dry. If you stack the timbers to dry be sure they are stickered and air can circulate all around them for best drying condition. In a warehouse or garage with air movement is best. Don't leave them on the ground or they will be full of bugs by the time you use them. Don't dead pack them where they are in contact with each other or mold will develop. If they are subjected to high humidity and high temperature conditions, normally found in July and September they will likely develop blue stain, an air bourn fungus that puts a radial blue stain all around the outer perimeter of the logs. This stain can go 2-3 inches deep.
If you erect the frame green you want to apply a water repellent to minimize water absorption which will quicken the drying process. All of the "free" water must evaporate before cellular drying starts. When all free water is removed the wood is considered "saturated." This is normally found at 30% moisture content when measured with a moisture meter. From there the wood needs to lose water from its cells down to the ambient moisture condition in your geography which is probably in the teens. Good luck.
