Home Improvement--General/Broken window seal


I hope you can help. I live in a suburb of Chicago, IL. About 11-12 years ago I had Climateguard double hung windows installed (facing east). Yesterday I noticed moisture between the panes on one window, down at the bottom. Not a lot, and it disappeared later the next day. The day before it rained all day. I checked and there wasn't any water inside. It's a long window, so it's almost like two windows on top of each other (the moisture would be at the bottom of the top window). I apologize for not describing it more clearly. My question is, I plan on replacing it since I would like to replace several others, but how critical is it if I need to wait until Spring? Will waiting cause significant damage? I plan on calling for estimates, but I have no idea how soon the work can be done, or if they will do it when it's cold. To look at the window now, there isn't any streaking or staining. I'm assuming this only happens with wind-driven rain, but I'm not sure. This is the first time I have noticed this so I have no idea how long it has been going on.

If it is just condensation or fogged up a little...like a windshield in the winter months...I see no way it can cause any damage if you wait until spring. The only way it can cause damage if there was actual water getting onto the wood underneath the window. If that were the case, you would start to see mold on the drywall below the window. I just had that situation I repaired at a house in Oak Lawn. A small section of caulk was missing from around the outside of the home owners double hung vinyl window. The water did some damage but it was minimal.
What you can do now while you are waiting for your new windows is to take clear acrylic window & siding caulk and go around the window frame right over the existing seal. Cut the tip of the caulk tub to where only a small amount or thin bead of chaulk will come out. Then use your finger or a chaulking tool to cover all the edges where the glass meets the window frame. Then wipe off the excess with a wet rag. The wet rag will also smooth the caulk out.  

Home Improvement--General

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russell spataro


Any constrution or remodeling questions


15 years of custom home building. My knowledge on building homes correctly is written below. If I had more than 2000 characters I would gone on.

Lets start with foundation footing. The standard foundation footing is 20 inches wide. Foundation walls are 10 inches wide and must be dug down below the freeze line or 48 inches in Illinois. Framing a house. 2"x4" or 2"x6" walls. They are put 16" on center. Floors should be 3/4" tongue & groove plywood. 1/2 plywood sheeting should be placed on the exterior walls. Two 2"x12" nailed together should be used as headers above all windows and exterior doors. They should also be used on any doorways, halls or open spaces on all bearing walls. Walls get R-13 insulation. Ceiling insulation should be R-36 in Illinois or 10 inches of blown in insulation. Concrete for the sidewalks should be 4" thick. If it is a driveway or garage floor, then 5" thick. Foundation walls must be sealed with either tar or spray on sealer. Concrete for basement floors are 4" thick, with drain tile underneath crawl spaces must be covered with 2" of concrete. Stair risers should be no more than 7.5". Stair treads should be 10" wide. Deck spindles should be spaced no more than 4" s.

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