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About Steve Major (Owner - Major Design Group)
Expertise
I can answer any questions regarding the design and execution of home improvement and remodeling. This includes trade-specific questions (how-to) in all major building trades: framing, foundations, site prep, electrical, HVAC, plumbing, water treatment, interior finishing, trim & cabinetwork, exterior finishing, roofing, siding. PLEASE indicate your state or region, so I can provide the best possible answer.

Experience
25 years experience in home improvement design and construction, all hands-on, including the construction of dozens of single-family homes and hundreds of remodeling projects in the northeastern US.

Publications
Author: "Architectural Woodwork - Details for Construction" published by Van Nostrand Reinhold (now Wiley).

Education/Credentials
BS -- Cornell University

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Home/Garden > Home Improvement/Repair > Home Improvement--General > basement insulation

Home Improvement--General - basement insulation


Expert: Steve Major (Owner - Major Design Group) - 9/9/2007

Question
Hi - I am in the process of finishing a basement and have a few questions about insulating it:

1) I only have one wall the faces the exterior. The other walls are all interior (i am in interior unit townhouse.) What benefit will I get (acoustic benefits?) by insulating the interior walls? The walls are concrete.

2) Am I better off insulating after running tv co-axial cable and speaker wires, or before? I plan to run speaker wires etc... inside the walls for an entertainment center

Thanks

Answer
John,

1) You will get little benefit from insulating solid concrete interior walls.  I would skip the step.  Extra insulation (especially fiberglass) is just waiting to get wet possible moldy in a basement.  I recommend that anyone finishing a below grade space use rigid extruded polystyrene insulation (Dowboard, or similar) glued directly to the exterior facing foundation walls.  Then frame your finished walls in front of this, without using any fiberglass.  The finished walls are non-load bearing and can thus be framed with 2x3's, and even up to 24" on center to save space, time, and money, at your discretion.  Be sure to use pressure-treated lumber for all bottom plates.  Be sure to leave at least 3/4" to 1" space at the bottom of any porous wallcovering (drywall or paneling).

Of course, fiberglass can be used to insulate the exterior-facing band joist area of a wood-framed floor above the walls.

2) Electrical and any other utilities are nearly always run prior to insulation with batts.  But if you follow #1 above this becomes a non-issue.

Best of luck and let me know if you have additional questions.

--Steve Major

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