About Reiner V Expertise I am very familiar with Japanese cars in general but I do specialize more on Honda and Acura. Anything from Electrical to Mechanical issues.
PLEASE INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING WHEN ASKING A QUESTION:
YEAR
MODEL/TRIM
MILEAGE
BRIEF HISTORY THAT LEAD TO PROBLEM.
Experience Owning Honda and Acura automobiles.
Education/Credentials Just from owning them.
You are here: Experts > Shopping > Cars > Honda > 97 Honda Accord, D4 , Check Engine, Won't Start
Question Reiner V, My 97 Honda Accord 4dr has problems starting anytime the humidity is high (fog and rain are the worst) The Check Engine light will not extinguish and after 23 (Twenty Three) seconds, the D4 light will flash at 2Hz. Once the D4 light starts flashing, there is nothing I can do to get the car started. This problem has been happening for about 1 year. Periodically since I have owned it, the odometer has stopped working anytime the analog readout has 999 as the last few digits. It reads 145999 now and has for the last month. I can usually get the car to start by jockeying the ignition switch from the start position to just before the start position 20-30 times. While doing this, I hear two relays closing and opening, 1 behind the dash and 1 behind the radio. While manipulating the ignition, I hear a relay close 1 second before the engine light extinguishes and the car will start at this point. I have also found that turning on the heater and letting it run for a few minutes will lead to the check engine light extinguishing. Today, the "Break Lamp" on the dash under the vehicle symbol is on even though my break lights work and the SRS light will not extinguish. I can't help but think that all of these problems are related (ECU?, maybe a wiring harness?) Thanks for any help you can give me.
Answer Wow, thats a lot of problems at once.
If you live in the US, I would HIGHLY suggest heading to an Autozone and getting a FREE OBD (on Board Diagnostic) check. The transmission lights usually blinks on Hondas when it is low on tranny fluid. You might want to check that immediately...after running the car 15 miles or so to get an accurate tranny oil reading on the dip stick, but in your case, you may want to check it before you run the car.
Do not remove the + terminal at any point until you have actually had the car diagnosed, doing so will remove all the codes you may need to figure out what the heck is going on.
As for the Brake light, the center bulb (the one on the rear lower windshield deck) is usually what goes out that people don't check, not the main left and right side brake lights.
SRS indicates problems with seat belts, could be related to other things considering so many other things are wrong.
Go get an OBD check scan tool at autozone and then proceed from there.
