AboutThomas Expertise Have a question about jewelry repair or working with gold or silver jewelry and gemstones? I am a working professional bench jeweler, involved everyday with setting stones in mountings, designing and making jewelry, repairing and some custom manufacture. Over 30 years experience. If you work with jewelry as a hobby or as a profession, I might be able to help. I deal with the retail business, not mass production. Ask privately if you wish. See the box for that: It keeps your question between us. Please DO NOT ask MAKER'S MARKS, but metal quality marks are fine to ask. Please DO NOT ask diamond prices. See a gemologist for that.
Experience Education is English/Physics!Started in human resources, to advertising, to jewelry...wow, what a road. Now a jeweler for many years. I have had formal training in jewelry work and many shared experiences with top grade jewelers. We just never know were we will go or be. Follow your best, your dreams, with some discretion!
Expert: Thomas Date: 6/24/2008 Subject: Engagement ring
Question Hello.
My husband bought me an engagement ring a few months ago, and I have a question regarding quality. It's a wedding band/engagement ring set. Both the engagement band and wedding bands are identical (except that the engagement ring has a center stone/crown mounted on it). They are both channel set with princess-cut diamonds. One of the engagement ring sides is not really straight--it looks as if the very edge of the side was "folded over" a little bit. I talked to the owner of the jewelry store where it was purchased, and he said that it was completely normal and was just a result of the way that it was polished. He said that if the ring was re-cast, it is likely that another side would not be polished the same as the other sides. I'm just wondering if that is true. Is there really not much control over the way that a ring is polished?
Thank you very much for your help.
Answer Sarah, this one gets to me. A good craftsman knows there is control over polishing. It need not be overdone.
I find this statement you quoted from the jeweler intriguing: “that it was completely normal and was just a result of the way that it was polished. He said that if the ring was re-cast, it is likely that another side would not be polished the same as the other sides.”
Here is an illustration. Years ago when early in the business of making jewelry I did mostly designs which were considered avant-garde by some folks, perhaps a bit too modern or stylized for some tastes. Many of these items were asymmetric, meaning the design was not the same on one side as the other. Bit the straight lines were straight and the curved parts were uniformly curved. This was by plan and I took a lot of time to be certain each part was as it should be. Well, at the time folks were more into arts/crafts looks and wanted the item to look more hand made, less well defined. Some even asked if I could put in a few hammer marks to show it was hand made. Apparently, hand making a piece and doing it well did not say hand made to some folks and the quality of the workmanship was not truly appreciated. The point being: If straight lines or curves are wanted to look a certain way, that is possible with careful and attentive craftsmanship. You did not get this attentive craftsmanship.
If careful attention was paid to your ring the sides would be even and symmetrical as the sides should be. The statement that “it is likely that another side would not be polished the same as the other sides” simply tells me the same lack of attention to detail would likely mean another distorted ring. What you are being told is simply not true, at least, not to a jeweler who has spent the time needed even in difficult designs and shapes to make certain all is matched well and as perfect as hand work can do. Believe me, good craftsmanship would give you a ring without the problems you now have.
The way it was polished is blamed. Well, that IS the fault. This is NOT normal for a craftsman who takes pride in dong the best job in a particular project and the real statement is this: Sloppy polishing and finishing is to blame.
I really do not like to speak strongly against others in the jewelry business but what you are being told is simply a cover up for bad workmanship. We produce hand made one of a kind items which are better than factory work in many cases. I do know the stones are set much more securely than what many factories are turning out today and the symmetry of the rings is symmetrical, not with a dip or a fold in the metal which is not supposed to be there.
Maybe like some jewelers out there, the jeweler has not learned or does not know the difference in fine work and less than the best work. I had a young man approach me wanting to sell his silver creations. The designs were nice. I handed him one of the rings we made and asked him to compare the difference, inside the ring. Inside ours was completely polished as it should be. Inside his were visible sanding and file marks. He was honest and did not realize he should have taken the extra steps to completely finish his work. I purchased one ring from him and he thanked me for the lesson. I imagine from then on he spent the time needed to completely finish his work. Some jewelers unfortunately do not know better. Some know better but work for a boss who insists on quicker work and will not allow extra time needed to do it right. The jeweler may care deeply but the boss wants quicker turnaround.
Sorry, I got on a slight rant with this one. I do believe I have answered your question. I find poor craftsmanship unacceptable and blaming it away is just as bad.
Sarah, oh my, I do hope this helps. I truly do not like to answer with a negative direction but I must tell it straight up, honest, as I see it. I wish very much the problems may be rectified and you can be happy with this set of rings.
