AboutThomas Expertise Have a question about jewelry repair or working with gold or silver jewelry and gemstones? I am a working professional bench jeweler, involved everyday with setting stones in mountings, designing and making jewelry, repairing and some custom manufacture. Over 30 years experience. If you work with jewelry as a hobby or as a profession, I might be able to help. I deal with the retail business, not mass production. Ask privately if you wish. See the box for that: It keeps your question between us. Please DO NOT ask MAKER'S MARKS, but metal quality marks are fine to ask. Please DO NOT ask diamond prices. See a gemologist for that.
Experience Education is English/Physics!Started in human resources, to advertising, to jewelry...wow, what a road. Now a jeweler for many years. I have had formal training in jewelry work and many shared experiences with top grade jewelers. We just never know were we will go or be. Follow your best, your dreams, with some discretion!
Expert: Thomas Date: 6/28/2008 Subject: Sizing Error/Stretched Bridal Set
Question I purchased a 14K bridal set, which was sized down too small. I returned to the jeweler and had them size up from a 6 to a 6.5. At that time, being rather unfamiliar with this process, I confirmed that no stretching was involved. Today, I went to pick the rings up, and the bands were clearly thinner than before and one even had an obviously flattened portion. I took the rings back, and the manager assured me that they would build the bands back up (but I would have to wait two weeks for the repairs). I called back, unsure of how I felt about adding new, unoriginal product to the bands. The salesperson assured me that I "would be surprised" with what the repairer could do with softened gold, and that if things didn't "look right", they would order me a new set. Again, being amateur in this arena, I felt like I was being encouraged to accept a fixer upper. I guess I just want to know if building up thin rings is a common practice, and if rings that have been built-up will be of the same quality as originals. If not, do you suggestions? I was told that simply getting a replacement is not an option; I have to wait to see how the repair turns out.
Answer Hi, Sara. Thanks for this question about your concern on how the rings will be made thicker where resized.
First of all, you either asked or were told than no stretching would be involved in sizing the rings up 1/2 size. If that is the case, the very same method would be used to size the rings as is used to build up the thin areas. Sizing up is either a matter of using one of several methods to stretch the band or to add a piece of gold of the same karat and color to achieve the larger size. Stretching can be quite effective with no apparent thin or flat spots if done very carefully and if the ring band has enough area with which to work. Adding a piece means cutting the band at the bottom, opening the ring up enough to be the new larger size, fitting a piece of the correct metal in place and brazing and finishing. When done correctly, adding metal leaves no sign the ring was resized.
The accepted method of thickening a ring band is to remove the thin section and then add thicker gold, just as in resizing a ring. The process is essentially the same.
The rings should not have been thinner when delivered to you after sizing. Yet, it appears the jeweler is trying kindly to make it right. There is still the "if things don't look right" option for a new set of rings.
I believe the redo should not have been needed in the first place but if done correctly should be just fine. Done well, this is just like resizing and is not a fixer upper. When the rings are done, look for uniform contours on the bands and thickness as it should be. Look to see if any signs of the work show, such as tiny pits or lines were the new metal was installed. If all looks just fine, then I would go for it without undue concern.
Sara, I do hope this answer helps you. If you need more, please do not hesitate to use the follow-up option to get back.
