AboutLes Keller Expertise With over 28 years in the jewelry industry we can answer most any questions you may have regarding "fine" jewelry, we cannot answer questions regarding "costume" jewelry or antique value jewelry unless it is diamond or gemstone related. In addition I cannot answer questions regarding Hallmarks or which jeweler made your item of jewelry. Please do not ask these questions as I am a diamond expert and jewelry designer.
Experience I am a graduate of the Gemological Institute of America since August 1982, and have sold diamonds wholesale, custom mfg. and designed quality high end jewelry. I have appraised jewelry for government agencies and continue to deal with Insurance co. for replacement of lost jewelry.
Education/Credentials Gemological Institute of America, 28 years experience in the Gem and Diamond Industry.
Expert: Les Keller Date: 7/18/2008 Subject: Broken Platinum Engagement Ring
Question QUESTION: I have had my platinum engagement ring for about a month and a half now.
It is a 2 carat princess cut with pave diamonds three quarters of the way down
both sides of the ring. After wearing my engagement ring for about a month
I noticed that the ring started to bend and flatten out on the bottom. It now
has a crack on the bottom part of the ring and there is only a thin piece of
platinum holding the ring together. I have never seen a ring crack in half
before and I'm EXTREMELY disappointed that it had to happen to my
Engagement ring! When we called the jeweler to complain, they accused me
of causing blunt force to the ring or some other type of trauma causing the
ring to crack in half. I am completely bewildered....offended... and quite
frankly furious! There was no blunt trauma to the ring or my finger. Can you
please tell me how this could have happened since I can't get a straight
answer out of my jeweler. Also, they mentioned having to order a new band
from the "manufacturer" when I had assumed that the band would have been
made in house. Is there a price range or benchmark that can be used to
distinguish when a ring should be custom and when it should come from a
Manufacturer?
Many thanks!
ANSWER: Tris
Dont be angry, did you actually show your jeweler the ring? Platinum is a soft metal its the iridium or other alloy which makes this Noble metal hard....difficult to work with and the seam can and will show if the ring is sized with other than platinum solder....some jewelers use white gold solder with the platinum as it melts at a lower temperature but the sizing line will show by doing this and it can separate which is what happened to you.
The ring might have been ordered as a casting from a manufacturer and then the jeweler may have set all the stones in house, thus the confusion.
The Jeweler should have at least looked at it and offered some suggestions. The platinum ring can be repaired properly without any hint of this problem by using a qualified jeweler who has experience working with Platinum. Shop around and Im sure you will find someone...if not , send me the ring and I will fix it for you and quote you a price...or email me a picture so I can further assist.
Les
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Les,
Thanks for your quick response! The jeweler met with my fiance today and is
willing to exchange the the band for a brand new one. However, my feeling
is that if it happens once it could happen again to the same ring! So I have
opted to meet with her and pick another band. In your reply you alluded to
other metals being used..... Is White Gold more durable/sturdy than
Platinum? Should I perhaps think of using a different metal if Platinum is so
soft?
Tris
Answer Tris
I wasnt very clear, Platinum is soft yes, but its the IRIDIUM or other metals mixed with the platinum which give it its hardness, Platinum will not turn a yellowish color like white gold can after wearing it for some time.....platinum is one of the Noble metals and it is expensive and hard to work with......Palladium may be an alternate choice as it too is a Noble metal and pure. White gold is less expensive and easier from a jewelers standpoint to work with, but it too can have its problems like all metals....its all up to you and your budget, the bending and flattening of your ring could be because of the thickness of the shank or bottom of the ring, send me a picture and I can comment further..
all the best
Les
