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Jewelry, Gems, & Minerals/Invisible Style Princess Cut Damage


Hi I have a question about invisible style princess cut diamonds is it possible if the ring is not set properly that the diamonds can damage each other over time.  Also is re-sizing of princess cut invisible style diamonds open to a possibitly to damanging the ring and stones?  I am from Ireland i dont have a picture of the ring but it is set in a white Gold band and the diamonds are in rows of approx 4 stones and and set half way around the ring. Thanks for your help with the above questions it is much appreciated.

Lesley,thanks for this good question.

In the business where I formerly did the jewelry service work and design, we generally did not accept invisible set rings for sizing.  If the invisible set stones were part of a central head or crown made apart from the band part, we would sometimes take in the job. However, if set into the band, we faced risks beyond that of other stone setting styles and would often turn down the job or send it to a company specializing in invisible set service work.  Even then, the amount of sizing alteration is more limited than is other setting styles.

Invisible setting styles gained popularity from the quite good looking affect of having diamonds directly side by side with no apparent prongs or metal separation between the gems. The effect is a "wash" or sheet of gems, very attractive with sparkly gems whether diamonds or colored stones like ruby or sapphire. Apparent soon after introduction of this setting style were problems in the jewelry shops in doing service work, including sizing. A very thin wall of metal generally surrounds the outside of the stone rows and is fitted into a groove in the edge of the outside gems. Stone across the rows hold together with a groove sort of arrangement of cuts in the stone waists(girdle).  When one stone is loose or lost, in some settings this give rise to a loosening and loss of neighboring gems.

When a ring is sized, the shape of the band is altered even if slightly. The circle of the ring will be either larger or smaller than it was to start. When made larger, the circle is made larger and that in turn means the ring is "spread out", how much depending on the new larger size. When spread out, the stones are forced closer together and damage to the girdle is possible. When sized down, the circle is made smaller and bending to the smaller circle will tend to spread the gems apart. If spread apart too much, the stones will become loose as metal is pulled away and the stones are separated slightly.

When the gems are not set properly, the possibility of a lost gem or many lost gems is possible and that is more of a concern than the stones somehow moving and causing damage over time. Beautiful as it might be, invisible setting is unfortunately not the a higthly secure  setting style and if a stone is struck somehow in everyday wear, the girdle of the gem or its neighbor may be damaged.

Lesley, I do hope this helps to some extent. I wish for you a wonderful Christmas season and upcoming new year.  God Bless and Peace.  Thomas.  

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Have a question about jewelry repair or working with precious metal jewelry and gemstones? For many years up to December 31, 2010, I was a working professional bench jeweler, involved everyday with setting stones in mountings, designing and making jewelry, repairing and limited custom manufacture. If you work with jewelry as a hobby or as a profession, I might be able to help. I deal with the retail business, not mass production. Ask privately if you wish. See the box for that: It keeps your question between us. Please DO NOT ask MAKER'S MARKS, but metal quality marks are fine to ask. Please DO NOT ask diamond prices. See a gemologist for that.


I have extensive experience in design, service and making of jewelry. I deal mostly with precious metals and gemstones but work with many materials as needed and usable to create an artistic design. My experience also includes freelance photography and photographer of jewelry and similar items for a former employer and individuals. Design of custom items requires reading the desires of the client and being clear on what can be done within that framework...then fulfilling the transition of idea to reality. Effective communications is essential in a working designer/producer and customer relationship.

Education is English/Physics! Started in human resources, to advertising, to, what a road. I have had formal training in jewelry work and many shared experiences with top grade jewelers. We just never know were we will go or be. Follow your best, your dreams, with some discretion! Don't let the work tear up your body along the way as it has mine.

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