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Jewelry, Gems, & Minerals/Seeking a designer's advice.


Dear Thomas,
Since you're probably the only expert here with vast experience in jewelry-making, I believe what I am about to ask is most appropriately directed to you.

I am having trouble trying to present my custom made ring design to my jeweler's designer (no, I am not able to conveniently meet with him/her) for review and adjustments as I have to go through a sales person.

I would want my custom made ring to be crafted exactly as shown in the picture, especially the top of the ring where the width is thicker and curves in, but I am not a technical guy and don't know how to make known precisely (using technical terms) how the top and side measurements and looks would be as shown in the picture included.

Since you're a designer yourself, I guess maybe you will know what additional way of putting/wording it should I include in the picture for my jeweler's designer to understand completely, like what other measurements a designer may need to know and how this/that technical part of the ring should look like.

Please advice.

The picture included is exactly how I would give to my jeweler's designer for review.
Some of the wordings may sound personal but I don't know what better way to put it, so maybe you can advice me on this too.
I did some editing on the original design and exclude those curvy looks on the side of the ring.

And thanks for everything.

Dear Choo,

The image you have of the ring fascinates me. It is nicely done and appears a digital rendering from a design program. Similar programs are used with cad(computer assisted design) to mill or form the model of the ring in special wax for the casting process. With the model made, small revisions may be made by hand as needed and a close estimate of weight of metal required may be made.

You have indicated a weight. My concern is if this weight of 18k gold is accurate if based on a drawing.  Also, the ring appears to have a hollow interior.  It is perfectly good practice for the "heavier" sections on the upper sides and top of the ring to be hollowed out to save on metal required but the lower half of the ring should certianly be solid with no hollowing on the interior. You should note this to the jeweler.  When produced by the casting method, the upper sections even if hollowed will be thicker and more durable than a lightweight ring formed by die striking or pressure formed metal.

You have asked for templates.  I am not certain what you need here.  The best for you to see is a three dimensional wax form used for the actual molding of the ring. This will be somewhat delicate to handle but will give you a precise view of the ring, even if in a green or strangely colored wax.  I believe you are quite particular on the ring because it is very important to you. In this case, asking the jeweler to allow you to see the wax model will provide you an honest view and will prevent mistakes on the part of the jeweler regarding design.

Choo, I prefer this design to the one with the curvy "depressions" on the side.  As years pass, styles trends change among the people. The present design as in the illustration with this question will be of a more classical nature and will always have an attractive look.

I do hope the sales person will be understanding and have enough knowledge to provide what you need in assurances.   You might expect some slight variances in tolerances of dimensions but all should be quite close to what you have indicated.  

If what I have said will be what you need, then our cooperation has worked well. If you need my thoughts in a more specific direction, I do expect you will be back.   In aany regard, I am interterested in the progress you might have once the work is assigned to the jeweler.

Blessings and Peace.  Thomas.  

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Have a question about jewelry repair or working with precious metal jewelry and gemstones? For many years up to December 31, 2010, I was a working professional bench jeweler, involved everyday with setting stones in mountings, designing and making jewelry, repairing and limited custom manufacture. If you work with jewelry as a hobby or as a profession, I might be able to help. I deal with the retail business, not mass production. Ask privately if you wish. See the box for that: It keeps your question between us. Please DO NOT ask MAKER'S MARKS, but metal quality marks are fine to ask. Please DO NOT ask diamond prices. See a gemologist for that.


I have extensive experience in design, service and making of jewelry. I deal mostly with precious metals and gemstones but work with many materials as needed and usable to create an artistic design. My experience also includes freelance photography and photographer of jewelry and similar items for a former employer and individuals. Design of custom items requires reading the desires of the client and being clear on what can be done within that framework...then fulfilling the transition of idea to reality. Effective communications is essential in a working designer/producer and customer relationship.

Education is English/Physics! Started in human resources, to advertising, to, what a road. I have had formal training in jewelry work and many shared experiences with top grade jewelers. We just never know were we will go or be. Follow your best, your dreams, with some discretion! Don't let the work tear up your body along the way as it has mine.

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