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Jewelry, Gems, & Minerals/Resize up (1/2-1 size)


Hello Thomas,

I wish to understand if an engagement ring (white gold) solitaire diamond with pave' diamonds that stop halfway down the band can be resized up and via which method- heating/stretching or cutting procedures?

Will engraving inside the band be affected (covers most of the lower inside end of the band)?

Many thanks,

Hi, Derek.

Your question is appreciated and I do have an answer for you. Your description of the ring allows me to be much more accurate than if you had simply said pave' with no indication of where the stones are located. This information is vital.

Australian finger ring sizes are closer together than used in my country, the United States. Where a size in the USA is about 2.5 mm difference in the band, in Australian sizes you are looking at closer to 1 mm difference needed to make a band a size lager or smaller. This is not much metal. Why is this important?  The ring does have pave' stones and I have no means of knowing how securely the stones are set into the metal. The new size wanted should not distort the band enough to disrupt the stone settings.  You see, when the ring is stretched or metal is added, either way the circle becomes larger. In your case, the ring can likely be made this small amount larger without significant strain on the metal where the gemstones are pave' set. In other words, a competent jeweler should be able to do the job with ease, checking the stones for security when the work is completed.

The only sort of stretching to be done on a pave' set ring must be done on the area without gemstones and an area which is not "hollowed out" on the inside(finger side) of the band. This would not use heat but the jeweler can use a small device to roll the metal in a small area, similar to rolling dough but in metal and with a very controlled pressure and small area involved. This controlled rolling will compress and stretch the metal. Light sanding and polishing will restore the surface.  As little as the ring must be made larger, I would likely use this method instead of adding a piece of metal.

Derek, keep in mind, a jeweler must make the decision on which method to use to make the ring larger.  If you obtained the ring elsewhere than a particular jewelers establishment, I suggest checking at least two jewelers to get  another opinion.  My answer gives you some idea of what to expect.  Go with the jeweler showing the most confidence and assurance of doing the job properly. The work should not show when finished and ready for you.  Also, stones should have been checked for security and as a routine matter tightened if needed.

Derek, if the method is to add metal, the engraving will definitely be damaged. Be certain the engraving is recorded as to words, style, etc. so repair/redo may be done properly. While the attempt is made to add metal in a location away from engraving, this is not always possible.

If the ring is stretched by rolling the bottom of the band, any damage will not be known until the work is done. Stretching may leave the engraving only slightly affected or if rolled too aggressively,engraving may be flattened or partially "erased". If the work is done gently and engraving is affected but only slightly, a light polishing of the inside of the ring with no sanding is the method. The result will not be as perfect as in the beginning but should be quite acceptable. Sanding is generally a normal step in finishing metal which has been worked but may be skipped and the area polished directly and only lightly cleaned up to preserve the engraving.

Derek, if you need to get back with me on this question or have further concerns, please use the follow-up option to get back with me. I would rather provide more information if you need it. if you speak to jewelers and run into a situation which is confusing, by all means get back with me for an opinion.

God Bless and Peace. Joy to you and the one receiving the ring.  Thomas.

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Have a question about jewelry repair or working with precious metal jewelry and gemstones? For many years up to December 31, 2010, I was a working professional bench jeweler, involved everyday with setting stones in mountings, designing and making jewelry, repairing and limited custom manufacture. If you work with jewelry as a hobby or as a profession, I might be able to help. I deal with the retail business, not mass production. Ask privately if you wish. See the box for that: It keeps your question between us. Please DO NOT ask MAKER'S MARKS, but metal quality marks are fine to ask. Please DO NOT ask diamond prices. See a gemologist for that.


I have extensive experience in design, service and making of jewelry. I deal mostly with precious metals and gemstones but work with many materials as needed and usable to create an artistic design. My experience also includes freelance photography and photographer of jewelry and similar items for a former employer and individuals. Design of custom items requires reading the desires of the client and being clear on what can be done within that framework...then fulfilling the transition of idea to reality. Effective communications is essential in a working designer/producer and customer relationship.

Education is English/Physics! Started in human resources, to advertising, to, what a road. I have had formal training in jewelry work and many shared experiences with top grade jewelers. We just never know were we will go or be. Follow your best, your dreams, with some discretion! Don't let the work tear up your body along the way as it has mine.

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