Expert: Thomas - 5/4/2005

Question
Our wedding bands are stamped inside with the maker's stamp and '8K  

They are supposed to be 18 karat yellow gold.  Is it customary or legal to stamp an 18 karat ring as '8K instead of 18K? That is: apostrophy 8K?

Thanks.


Answer
Our wedding bands are stamped inside with the maker's stamp and '8K

They are supposed to be 18 karat yellow gold. Is it customary or legal to stamp an 18 karat ring as '8K instead of 18K? That is: apostrophy 8K?

Thanks.

Hello and thanks for the question.

I can see the reason for confusion on the quality marks of you wedding bands.   To get right to the point, there is not an abbreviated stamp for 18k.  Of course, many rings are marked with a “numeral” showing the gold content instead of the karat stamp.  For 18k this numeral is 750.      This means the same thing as 18k.   The number comes from higher standards being enforced by the jewelry “marking” regulations of various countries and is more universally accepted than the karat stamp.  Numbers appear more precise but the meaning is exactly the same.. 18k is 750 is 18k!

All jewelry metal mixes use other metals added to pure gold to give special working character to the metal and to make the metal strong enough for jewelry wear.  18k is an excellent choice for jewelry.  The number marks are found by dividing the karat of the gold by the karat of “pure” gold.  Pure gold is called 24 karat or fine gold.  18k gold is 18 parts pure gold compared to 24k.   Think of it as a recipe with 24 parts.  18 parts are pure gold and the rest is other metal.   18/24 is .750 and that is where the number comes from.   

THE REAL QUESTION ABOUT THE MARK IN YOUR BANDS.
As I mentioned, the rings should be marked either 18k or 750.    What I suspect is that the stamp was not applied at exactly the correct angle and only the “8” of “18” showed.  Or, this was a damaged steel stamp and the “1” was not there.   If factory made, the stamp problem should have been caught by quality control.

If you have no doubts about the karat of your bands, this is a “not to worry” situation. If you do wonder at times if the bands are really 18k, the best solution is to go to a jewelers and ask for the karat of the bands be checked.  The jeweler will use either an electronic testing device or a acid test.  The acid test is relatively harmless.  The edge of the band is rubbed on a slate stone to get a streak of the metal.  Then, a streak of “known metal” is also rubbed on the stone.  Acid is applied.  If the “known” streak is from verified 18k gold, the steaks should react the same to the acid.   If the steak from you bands dissolves quickly and the known streak remains, then you bands are less than 18k.       Any competent jeweler should be able to do this test and charge should be minimal.

The legal question is a strange one.  In the USA, “if an item of jewelry is marked with karat, the manufacturer must put the makers mark close to the karat mark” and that is about it.   A maker of jewelry does not have to mark any karat at all but that would certainly be unwise business practice!  If they DO mark the ring, the makers mark MUST be there close by the karat mark. The makers mark is like signing a document:  The maker stamps the mark next to the karat mark just like signing a legal document.  This is a “statement” from the manufacturer that the karat is as stated by the karat mark.    In some countries, all jewelry is tested and stamped by government registered assay companies, such as in England.  The quality mark there is done by the assay office and not the jewelry manufacturer.   The system in the USA gives more freedom for a small jewelry maker or maker of individual one-of-a-kind items to mark the items in shop.  Still, the makers mark must be there to “sign on” that the karat mark is accurate.


I do hope this answer helps.   I suspect incorrect stamping in the first place, mechanically incorrect.  8k is not a recognized gold karat and I have not seen an "8k" stamp.  9k is accepted in Britain but in the USA 10k is the lowest karat which may be legally marked as karat gold.   Looks like nothing more than a bad stamping job.   Check with a jeweler to test the gold if concerned. Fair enough?

Thanks again. If you need more info or if anything was not clear, please use the follow-up option to get back.  I should be here once I get home from work.

God Bless and Peace to you.      Thomas.      05/04/2005 7:58 PM