Expert: Thomas - 12/19/2004

Question
I just read your reply to this question.

Expert: Thomas
Date:9/3/2004
Subject:is it gold
Question
i am a hobbyist i recently bought a couple of chains i was told were gold but i was not sure. someone told me to put it in bleach for 30 min if it changed color they were not gold, i did that and one of the chains got some spots kinda silver does that mean its not real or i ruined my chain? is there another way to test at home besides the acid test? thanks.

My question is what type/kind of acid do you use to do this test. Thanks, Jan


Answer
Hi, Jan.  Thanks for this question.  Unfortunately you are not the only person who has asked me about using bleach(chlorine like in the brand name Clorox).   You see, chlorine in bleach, hot tubs, swimming pools, etc. is one of the most destructive chemicals to jewelry!  White gold is most drastically damaged and some yellow gold is damaged while some is not.  Still, chlorine can and will discolor gold.  I cannot say what the spots on your chain mean without seeing the chain; however, I suspect this is simply a tarnish caused by the chlorine in the bleach.   

Tarnish caused by chlorine may affect places where the chain is soldered first.  If the links look like complete loops with no gap in the loop, the links are soldered.  All better chains are soldered links.   Solders may be damaged and weakened by bleach.  If white gold, the gold can actually fall apart!   The worse damage to jewelry by chlorine is generally seen in rings with stones set into white gold prongs.  The chlorine works on the stressed places in the gold, such as prong ends holding the stones in place.  The prongs are bend and forced onto the stone when the stone is set and this makes stress in the metal, sort of like when a coat hanger is bent back and forth.  When bent back and forth enough, the coat hanger will break.   The stress in the prongs is just from one bend but that is the place chlorine starts to work. So, we see rings with the prong tips gone!

CHLORINE IN BLEACH IS NOT A WAY TO TEST FOR REAL GOLD!
Don't knock yourself for doing the bleach thing. Lots of folks have done it.  One questioner actually ruined a white gold diamond ring this way and the settings had to be replaced.

ACID TESTS FOR GOLD.
Acids used are mostly nitric acid, a dangerous material to handle.  A gold looking item is rubbed on a flat slate piece to put some of the metal on the slate.  A piece of metal we know is gold is also rubbed on the slate.  The acid is placed on both rubbings and the color is compared.  The acid will dissolve the rubbing from the unknown item if it is not gold.  If it is a lower karat than the “known” piece, the color will be darker from the acid than the mark from the known piece.  Acid tests are a matter of comparing what you know is gold(and the karat) to items you do not know about.

IS IT GOLD?  Perhaps the best way to really know is to let a jeweler test the chain,  using either an acid test or a newer electronic testing device. There is not a practical way to tell if an item is gold or the karat at home unless the acid or electronic tests are used.

IS YOUR CHAIN RUINED?  I cannot say.  There is a chance it is ruined or tarnished beyond redoing.  You can try a jewelry polishing cloth, pulling the chain through it to restore some shine.  If the pulling (even gently as it should be done) breaks the chain, the chain is weak or weakened by the bleach and will not be repairable.   A jeweler might be able to remove the discoloration but if the chain breaks, don't blame the jeweler since it might be damaged already from the bleach.   

If the chain is not gold, as you can find out from a jeweler, it is likely best left as is.  Gold filled is difficult to refinish and plated items cannot be refinished at a reasonable price. A new chain would be less costly.

Jan,  I am sorry this happened to you!!  I am very glad you wrote me and asked about it. Now you do know what to tell anyone who suggests using bleach to test for gold!

If you need more information, please get back or send a follow-up.  I will be on vacation from Allexperts for the rest of the week through Christmas so it will be later for an answer from me.   

God Bless and Peace to All.           Thomas.       : )                    12/20/2004 7:16 PM