AllExperts > Jewelry Making 
Search      
Jewelry Making
Volunteer
Answers to thousands of questions
 Home · More Jewelry Making Questions · Answer Library  · Encyclopedia ·
More Jewelry Making Answers
Question Library

Ask a question about Jewelry Making
Volunteer
Experts of the Month
Expert Login

Awards

About Us
Tell friends
Link to Us
Disclaimer

 
 
 
 
About Dr. Ari Roark
Expertise
Metalsmithing, Goldsmithing,Jewelry Making, Gemology,Metallurgy,Art Jewelry,Jewelry Appraising,Metal Mill Work,Jewelry Education,Group Projects Adaptable to Special Populations as well as ordinary groups,Ethnobotany,Metal Clays, International Jewellery Law,Trade Law,Rock hounding,Industrial Health and Safety Assessment and Education as it pertains to Jewelry Studios (of all sizes and manufacturing concerns relative to the Trade, Jewellery Trade Organisations,Objective US Jewelry School critical Analysis,Applied Anthropology,goldssmithing,lapidary,metals,refining

Experience
More than 35 years experience in the Jewelry Industry, Juris doctorates, PhD's in Anthropology, Cultural History, Cultural Geography, Mining Locations Assessments, Industrial Health and Safety Inspector to the Jewelry Industry, Montessori Educator, Occupational Therapy, Natural Historian, Scholar of Jewelry Evolution, PhD in Creativity ( the analysis of the divergent genres of thought on the process and impetus of the essence of creativity as a state of being expressed tangibly),Extensive Fieldwork with populations of Traditional craftsmen worldwide, former Peace Corps volunteer, Former VISTA volunteer, Etc.

Organizations
too numerous to list

Publications
prefer not to answer for reasons related to plagiarism

Education/Credentials
PhD Anthropology( Applied(1), Cultural(2)Ethnobotany(1),PhD -Physics (Metallurgy 1)( Wave and Particle Dynamics 1),,JD,MD,MFA-Metals/Jewelry,,MFA-Printmaking, MFA-Sculpture, Extensive undergraduate degrees, extensive post doctoral work, Montessori Educator Certification (Primary and Secondary)..many, many Degrees, Grants, and Awards in my past as an Academic turned Jeweler, OSHA Certifications

Awards and Honors
too numerous to list including 3 Honorary Doctorates, Two Humanitarian Related Awards, and Service on Many Boards of Directors

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Jewelry Making > Jewelry Making > Coating Flowers with resin

Jewelry Making - Coating Flowers with resin


Expert: Dr. Ari Roark - 8/12/2008

Question
I have seen real flowers preserved in polyresin.  I cannot find any info on how to do it.  Is it really possible to do this?  Also, what about electroforming the flowers and leavs.  I have tried to find classes, but no success.  Thanks so much.  Patti Meadows/ Chattanooga TN

Answer
Hello Patti,
Actually it's a quite simple process provided you can find the  polyresin locally. Most jeweler's supply houses carry  it but any Michael's has the  resin and catalyst in stock- I just left the Chattanooga area( Cherokee County NC) after 17 years and Michael's s the  best bet nearest you.
The process is direct and straightforward. Dry plant material is essential. Make cure all the petals, calyxes, etc. have no  droplets of  water on them, nor  insect debris, etc. A small sable paintbrush is ideal for this. Simply brush off the  flowers- unless they are gardenias in which case  a few blasts of "canned air"  works smashingly and doesn't promote  browning from  too heavy a touch! Fire Mountain Gems and beads offers  examples  online of the  outcome in their  orchids, and other flowers available - for a huge mark-up! A quart of the resin and  ounce of the catalyst costs about 15 dollars on average. Then you'll need some  disposable paper cups - preferably waxed, and some  tongue depressors, or popsicle sticks or paint  mixing sticks for  stirring the  resin. A waxed paper over foil covered surface is great if you have no disposable piece of scrap plywood, or plexi-glass ( often free at a Lowe's!) to use. A piece of  metal screen bent into a sturdy half-rectangle or hardware cloth, or an old closely woven cake or cookie cooling rack works well for  pouring or dipping the  plant material into the resin ( I would coat the screen or hardware cloth with a spray of  clear varnish or shellac and let it dry well to give you a cheap, disposable/reusable elevated work tray).If the material is more  appropriately dipped, you will need some cheap but long and pointed tweezers and wooden toothpicks too.If you determine a pour  is all that's necessary or you are encasing  the flower on a base of resin or quartz slice, mica sheet, or  whatever you choose , a pour is adequate and the edges finish well.If you  take care to stir the resin slowly so as not to create bubbles,the flat method will work well in encasing the object. If you want to  use the flower as a jewelry component dipping  ensures an even coating- the trick is to submerge it and remove it slowly and evenly.should you notice a bubble on the  surface that is undesirable your toothpicks are at the ready to pop them  before the resin sets!
The toothpicks also come in hand to burst the inevitable small "bubblet" that is expected from the tweezers releasing the  material to your drying/ drip tray ( the screen).-lifting from the stem end for roses,liatris, poppies ( oriental only- the smaller,single petaled shirley poppies,california species, etc. are too flimsy to hold up given the resin's viscosity) etc.is best when possible, the calyx as for carnations,orchids etc. or from the back as with an aster ,daisy,zinnia,or chicory ;floral material with many small but sturdy petals .A note on those last listed- do them after practising with easier  flowers as you must  ensure the resin penetrates all the way into the centres of the flowers while  doing the "dip" with a steady and even motion. Take your time when  dipping and  pouring the resin (pouring  will not yield the same results in  multi-petaled flowers unless you  hold from the back, and  GENTLY give a slow spin with the tweezers to ensure the resin gets to the centers)and work in a well ventilated area - or outdoors  on a day without  gusty winds, have all your materials including a thinner/diluent at hand before beginning and dispose of the unused /excess resin safely. Be prepared for a messy area and process until you get  the hang of it!
I hope this encourages you to  try it yourself!I know you can get as good a result as is available commercially.The thicker the petals the beter the result( tuberose,rose,gingko leaves,wild ginger leaves,dog-tooth violet/trout lily,orchids,witch hazel (in winter only)are all thicker petaled examples).If you have more specific questions I will be happy to answer them.Don't hesitate to  email me again.
                                          best regards,Ari


Add to this Answer   Ask a Question


 
User Agreement | Privacy Policy | Kids' Privacy Policy | Help
Copyright  © 2008 About, Inc. AllExperts, AllExperts.com, and About.com are registered trademarks of About, Inc. All rights reserved.