About Dr. Ari Roark Expertise Metalsmithing, Goldsmithing,Jewelry Making, Gemology,Metallurgy,Art Jewelry,Jewelry Appraising,Metal Mill Work,Jewelry Education,Group Projects Adaptable to Special Populations as well as ordinary groups,Ethnobotany,Metal Clays, International Jewellery Law,Trade Law,Rock hounding,Industrial Health and Safety Assessment and Education as it pertains to Jewelry Studios (of all sizes and manufacturing concerns relative to the Trade, Jewellery Trade Organisations,Objective US Jewelry School critical Analysis,Applied Anthropology,goldssmithing,lapidary,metals,refining
Experience More than 35 years experience in the Jewelry Industry, Juris doctorates, PhD's in Anthropology, Cultural History, Cultural Geography, Mining Locations Assessments, Industrial Health and Safety Inspector to the Jewelry Industry, Montessori Educator, Occupational Therapy, Natural Historian, Scholar of Jewelry Evolution, PhD in Creativity ( the analysis of the divergent genres of thought on the process and impetus of the essence of creativity as a state of being expressed tangibly),Extensive Fieldwork with populations of Traditional craftsmen worldwide, former Peace Corps volunteer, Former VISTA volunteer, Etc.
Organizations too numerous to list
Publications prefer not to answer for reasons related to plagiarism
Education/Credentials PhD Anthropology( Applied(1), Cultural(2)Ethnobotany(1),PhD -Physics (Metallurgy 1)( Wave and Particle Dynamics 1),,JD,MD,MFA-Metals/Jewelry,,MFA-Printmaking, MFA-Sculpture, Extensive undergraduate degrees, extensive post doctoral work, Montessori Educator Certification (Primary and Secondary)..many, many Degrees, Grants, and Awards in my past as an Academic turned Jeweler, OSHA Certifications
Awards and Honors too numerous to list including 3 Honorary Doctorates, Two Humanitarian Related Awards, and Service on Many Boards of Directors
Jewelry Making - Sliver turning yellow, orange/brown and dark brown.
Expert: Dr. Ari Roark - 5/30/2009
Question Hello Dr. Ari,
I have a few questions about my jewelry turning colors. I have lots of
jewelry for many years and have just recently moved cross country. Since
moving all of my jewelry has in a year period started turning yellow, orangish
brown, and dark brown. They started turning very slowly at first. I started to
notice that some where looking a little yellow, so I invested in some jewelry
cleaner. I purchased Connoisseurs jewelry cleaner recommend for all but
pearls. (my pearls are the only things I have in great condition now.) After
using the cleaner the turning has just gotten worst. They now turn with in a
week’s period and the cleaner is no longer able to get the tarnish off.
Thus the metal itself is stained. I'm very sad and upset that this has happen
because I love all my jewelry so much and I really am not sure what to do
about this.
My newest piece is also starting to turn yellow as well. The pieces I love the
most are all marked .925 and have stones such as Charoite and Lapis-Lazuli
in them. Only one of them are not marked and I believe they are plated. I'm
worried about hurting the stones in them, but they are getting to the point
where I can not wear them because of the stain in the metal. What do you
think could help solve this problem. I'm wondering if I should take them to a
professional cleaner or maybe get an ultra sonic cleaner and do it myself.
Sincerely,
Brittany
Answer Hello Brittany,
Sorry about your dilemma! Sounds like you are doing two things rather incorrectly : Storage, and cleaning!
First after using a jewelry cleaner ( connoisseurs is just ammonia , detergent and sodium thiolamine compounds- junk for the most part!) rinsing thoroughly in distilled water - not tap water and drying store it with some 3M tarnish shields in a flannel cloth lined box, or even the new bags made with anti-tarnish ingredients in the plastic ( though I am not a proponent of disposable plastics, these bags will last for years of active anti-tarnish protection.
Good silver polish and cleaners brands are Simichrome, Flitz or MAAS products available at hobby and jewelry suppliers and on line at FDJ Tools, Contenti,Fire Mountain Gems ( they also sell the 3M tarni-shield strips or larger pieces that will protect the entire contents in a jewelry box) and a number of other on-line sources. You want to avoid baggies, and tissue paper that contains acids ( archival tissue or jewelers tissue is all right to use) or jewelers flannel pouches can be bought and used to store your pieces too.
To undo other damage between any prongs or from pieces of jewelry that were leveled with sawdust under the cabochon in bezel settings ( common on turquoise and other handmade jewelry that is bezel set: the sawdust holds the ammonia or other cleaning liquids, pool water, jacuzzi water treatments, etc..in short it is absorbent and often is not neutralized after you submerge jewelry into cleaners or water that leave their traces in the jewelry behind the stones and over time the chemicals react as the material dries out with room air discolouring your jewelry when you know you just cleaned it according to directions and can't figure out why the process is happening !).
.Alternatively you can buy a relatively inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner at harbor freight tools if you think you have enough uses to validate making the purchase- buy one with a heating element if you want to purchase one for use that is more than a vibrating dish of water- like the small connoisseurs units at x marts that are virtually not that effective and often the solution that comes with the product is simply sudsy ammonia nd not suitable for silver jewelry that is bezel set as you really don't know how it was fabricated adn could contribute to further damage if the stones are hiding sawdust or excelsior or other absorbent materials that the maker used..and only buy one if you have a lot of jewelry or relatives and friends with jewelry!You can get one with a heater for under 60 dollars that outprerforms any x mart unit by a long shot. Otherwise, take it to a local independent jewelry store ( not a Zales, or Jared, or other chain store) and ask if they will clean your sterling silver jewelry for you (.925 indicates your jewelry is sterling silver) in an ultrasonic and/or steam cleaner.If the price is under $20.00 regardless of how much silver you have that seems reasonable.Most will do it free if you are a past customer.
To really have it done right if after trying to clean as outlined above without good results get estimates on having your badly discoloured pieces compounded, and re-polished if they have a high polish or high shine. If they are matte finished, ask the jeweler if they have 3M radial bristle discs and if so would they refinish your jewelry for you and how much would it cost ( anything more than a few dollars is too much per piece, and anything that sounds far too high is.
Since you are not requesting an operation that should take hours of benchwork any jeweler should not charge the same rate per hour for benchwork as for cleaning or re-polishing...keep looking!.. and at what rate per hour would they charge.If it is under $20.00 per hour it is reasonable no matter where you live.To drop jewellery into an ultrasonic cleaner and run it for the two minutes required in a pro quality machine should not cost much, then drying it, or steam cleaning any prongs or gems should be equally fast.
I always urge readers to be good consumers and know a bit about what they are seeking, or services available before trying to negotiate a price for services rendered when often, jewelry stores do not have a published/printed pricing schedule for different bench tasks, or cleanings and quote what they think they can get.Yes, jewelers are in the business to make money and some are good business people and some quite the opposite.Chain stores often do none of their own work and send everything out - even cleaning beyond displaying a polishing cloth on their counters and keeping fingerprints off the glass displays and the jewelry itself. Some do steam clean items for you for free, call first and ask.
The other thing to look at since you have moved is the environment you are now in. Sulfur containing water may be at the root of your problem, in fact that is what it sounds like.Does your water have a slight or noticeable rotten egg smell? Do you live near an industrial area? Did you live in a dry climate and now are in an humid environment? If all of the above possibilities garner a "no" response then re-examine what you are storing the pieces in.Exposed to room air is not a good way to store silver jewelry ( or gold for that matter). Have you begun using some new cosmetics, laundry products or other household chemicals? Has your body chemistry changed because of a new drug, new exercise routine or dietary change? Any of the above can affect one's jewelry.
Sterling, is marked with a .925 ( whereas pure or fine silver is expressed .999) indicating that it is an alloy of fine silver and copper. The copper is the agent in the alloy that causes the trouble! Do costume jewelry pieces often turn green upon your wearing them? If so your body chemistry may be one of the possible culprits. If your new home smells of rotten eggs then , it is possible the sheet rock contains high levels of sulfur- in fact in New Orleans there are many law suits being registered in the court systems at this time regarding imported tainted Chinese drywall that was installed citywide after Hurricane Katrina. People's jewelry is the virtual canary in the mine showing the effects of the sulfuric sheet rock on their jewelry and hollow ware ( silver services and trays, etc.) So consider the purchase of the 3M tarni-shield strips bags or protective pouches or a jewelry box that can include the strips for storage.Think about trying to clean them first with a high quality cleaner and polish like the brands I mentioned above.If that doesn't do the trick, then consider your local jewelers as an option for cleaning and re-polishing and/or refinishing though I'm betting if you use any of the paste polishes listed above following the instructions and rinsing ( where the instructions tell you it is necessary) use distilled water only your problem may be solved.
If after you clean it store it and do everything to restore it to the condition it was in before you moved and the problem returns, look to the environment or the household chemicals it is coming into contact with on a daily basis- pools, showers, perfumes, diet, drywall, trapped chemical under the stones, and other factors.Decide on having a jeweler refinish it if necessary, and if not and the cleaning restores it, but it happens again,then an ultrasonic with a heating element sealed into it and distilled water in the basket as solution or a small steam cleaner may be in order.
I hope this helps understand the causes and efffects and you learn something about how to restore it on your own, how to be a good consumer and when all else fails call in a professional and store your jewelry appropriately for your new environment.
Best regards,Ari.
By the way, let me know if using one of the cleaners or polishes at home works!
