About Dr. Ari Roark Expertise Metalsmithing, Goldsmithing,Jewelry Making, Gemology,Metallurgy,Art Jewelry,Jewelry Appraising,Metal Mill Work,Jewelry Education,Group Projects Adaptable to Special Populations as well as ordinary groups,Ethnobotany,Metal Clays, International Jewellery Law,Trade Law,Rock hounding,Industrial Health and Safety Assessment and Education as it pertains to Jewelry Studios (of all sizes and manufacturing concerns relative to the Trade, Jewellery Trade Organisations,Objective US Jewelry School critical Analysis,Applied Anthropology,goldssmithing,lapidary,metals,refining
Experience More than 35 years experience in the Jewelry Industry, Juris doctorates, PhD's in Anthropology, Cultural History, Cultural Geography, Mining Locations Assessments, Industrial Health and Safety Inspector to the Jewelry Industry, Montessori Educator, Occupational Therapy, Natural Historian, Scholar of Jewelry Evolution, PhD in Creativity ( the analysis of the divergent genres of thought on the process and impetus of the essence of creativity as a state of being expressed tangibly),Extensive Fieldwork with populations of Traditional craftsmen worldwide, former Peace Corps volunteer, Former VISTA volunteer, Etc.
Organizations too numerous to list
Publications prefer not to answer for reasons related to plagiarism
Education/Credentials PhD Anthropology( Applied(1), Cultural(2)Ethnobotany(1),PhD -Physics (Metallurgy 1)( Wave and Particle Dynamics 1),,JD,MD,MFA-Metals/Jewelry,,MFA-Printmaking, MFA-Sculpture, Extensive undergraduate degrees, extensive post doctoral work, Montessori Educator Certification (Primary and Secondary)..many, many Degrees, Grants, and Awards in my past as an Academic turned Jeweler, OSHA Certifications
Awards and Honors too numerous to list including 3 Honorary Doctorates, Two Humanitarian Related Awards, and Service on Many Boards of Directors
Question QUESTION: I'm just learning: Can I us 20 mule team and does it need to be diluted or in power form!
ANSWER: Hello Lisa,
Yes 20 mule team is ok, but better to buy pure borax from a jewelry supply house in cone form, or from a chemical supply as its purer and contains no variable fillers that give you inconsistent results.The chemical supply is probably cheaper than the jewelry supply- there is one site on line called "cheap chemicals .com" i get many things from them- and while you're at it, a cheaper form of pickle is phDown as used in pools - same thing as sspaarex, without the brown gunk that floats on top ( the filer Krohn puts in the sparex) and is pretty gross and hard to remove, not to mention unnecessary to begin with. I have and mu colleagues have had really horrid experiences with Krohn industries and their Sparex product- the owner is paranoid to begin with- when I and many have inquired as to what the filler is and why its in there he has stated that we were trying to "steal his formula" when any chemical containing product has an MSDS that is available on line that tells you exactly what is in x and in what proportions - so learning that its made of sodium bisulphate is no big guarded secret- anyone can buy it from many sites or in the pool and spa section of a home store or retail chain.I buy it at the end of summer from x-marts as it usually goes on sale for about 2 dollars per 5 lb. container.It doesn't get much cheaper than that.
In the 20 mule team the fillers are detergents, but the product will coat a crucible or make a reasonable firecoat or flux, but overall, buy the cone or crystalline and pure form you'll be happier with the results and they will be more predictable time after time.Another option is a product like Cupronil- a flux and firecoat in one based on borax and boric acid from a hopi silversmithing recipe made by 4S labs, and relatively inexpensive !
Boric acid in denatured alcohol is used for making a great fire stain preventative- add the boric acid to a plastic lidded container containing methyl alcohol until the alcohol will no longer dissolve more boric acid- it has reached saturation.Keep it tightly closed and stir before using. To use dip the piece in the mixture and warm with a torch, or warm the piece and spray on to build up coats, then flux at the clean join and solder.
Hope this answers it for you.
Best regards,Ari
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QUESTION: I did purchase the Jeweler's Borax but the flame blows it out of the crucible and on the 1st attempt it turned several brown globs? Did you ever say if I need to add water to the Borax? Thank you for you advise!
Lisa
Answer Lisa,
The borax if applied properly is supposed to make "globs". You must pre- heat the crucible first, then sprinkle on the borax, and once it is molten turn the crucible with tongs to ensure a glassy coating.If the flame is blowing it out you are using a non warmed crucible and too high a flame from too far a distance. Have the tip of the flame ( the hottest part) right at the red hot crucible and then let the borax glob up- that is when it is just beginning to melt- it will turn red hot and flow like glass when the right temperature.You are stopping too soon if brown.
NEVER ADD WATER TO A CRUCIBLE- that will crack it and create a very dangerous situation.
Good luck, Ari
