Jewelry Making/brooch


QUESTION: I have Received a brooch from my late grandmother . it has says France 18k ts and a copy right stamp I am trying to figure out who uses that kind of stamping on brooches its a caterpillar brooch with blue topaz stones and green topaz stones the body is made of either polished mother of pearl if you like I can send you a picture of it if it would help thanks for your time

ANSWER: Jason, It may be solid it may be 18k plated, here is a hallmark link for costume jewelry that might help get you started:

and here are a couple of more sites:

It could take minutes or days to find especially from Europe. England is much more documented than France, however many of the "Royals" sanctioned many jewelers to hallmark their merchandise. Does it have a hallmark anywhere you can find? Have you Tested the surface or tried to find an area you could test deeper without damaging the piece? also be super careful not to get any testing fluids near the mother of pearl it will destroy it. With the stones you mentioned it is even more questionable that it is a solid piece however it is also very hard to tell without seeing it in person. A picture probably wouldn't change that. however if you would like to send one I would be glad to look. I don't know if you can upload one here if not let me know.

I did find that Cartier used the stamp "18k ts" in some pieces but not what the TS was referring to. but was used on the feature piece of this catalog on the last page:

and another pearl brooch on this page also from Cartier of France:
Both of which tend to be promising information  I hope it does turn out to be a valuable piece but without seeing it it is hard to tell.

Here is also a great article that might help you find what you are looking for:

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QUESTION: hello I am going to send you some pictures of the brooch if it will help  also I have taken it to a gold and silver exchange and the gentleman seem very interested in it he also tested is sold gold but the reason I cant find a hallmark is because where it says France just above it was grind off now I don't know why she had that done is a mystery so I am more interested on who made this well thank you for your time agian

ANSWER: Jason,
After seeing the pictures, it looks like an exquisite piece, perhaps sapphire & emerald cobochon stones, it might also be old enough to be ivory but mother of pearl is also a good possibility. It is as I mentioned, very hard to tell from pictures.
I'm on my phone and can't do the reasearch prior to responding as before but I recommend you contact Cartier & also perhaps Christies or Sutherbies antique department they may be of more help in identifying the piece. You might also want to get don macro shots of the stamps and also the small one on the pin. I couldn't make it out from the photos you posted but it looks like a hallmark on the left pin. Please let me know how it procedes and don't just sell it at a paun or gold & diamond buyers shop you truly seem to have a fine piece. It looks like a very high end item from the photos.
Please keep Me posted as to your progress, & let me know if I can help.

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QUESTION: hello this is Jason .well I went and bought myself a loupe and I found a hallmark signature .but still cant figure out who made the brooch on the pin part says g f 181 or g f 18k cant tell maybe you would know a little more than I do thank you for your time

Well Jason, GF is usually used to refer to Gold Filled. However I still think you should have it tested and also remember to use caution with the test solution and perhaps a phone call to Cartier isn't out of line either. with a photo follow up. Try taking it to a high end jewelry store that might carry Cartier or better yet I don't know where you live but if you are near NY you could stop by with the piece. or LA. Wish I could see the piece but that is where I would go if it were mine. It's not like someone can swap it for a fake it is too unique of a piece.

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Chris Eilertsen


I have been in the Jewelry Industry 20 years and Apprenticed as a silver smith took classes in Casting sculpting repair and trained under master gold and silver smiths as well as some experience in Faceting and diamond cutting and polishing for repair. Plating, Wax work, Diamond Setting, Engraving, Carving, Mold Making, design, some watch repair, tool making, enamel work, refining, mining, sales, sand blasting, casting. Have worked in Platinum, Gold, Silver, Pewter, Brass, Bronze, Aluminum,Steel,Titanium,Wood, Plastic, and Stone. 10 years Appraisal work in Jewelry.


20 years commercial experience in Repair Manufacturing and sales of Jewelry 3 years school 4 year apprentice. Worked on the duplication of the treasure found on the Spanish Galleon Maravalla by Dr. Cecil Humphreys. Traveled with and manufactured the souvenirs and miscellaneous replicas from the King Tut Exhibit when it visited the US.

Former member AGTA and GIA and a ten year member of Memphis Jewelers association. 17 years experience in Tuscon Jewelry shows buying and selling.

JCK Tuscon Show Gude

Classes at MSU and The Memphis art academy in Jewelry sculpting, Specialized Repair school, and 2 apprenticeships in Silversmithing from Juelius Astor, and Goldsmithing from Katchic Yacubian both masters for over 35 years each.Studied with Dr. Richard Prilliman, and several others.

Awards and Honors
JCK Tuscon Show honorable mention in design.

Past/Present Clients
Dr. Cecil Humphreys Finder of the Spanish Galleon Maravalla, The Vanderbilts, Miscellaneous repair antique estate pieces. Elvis Presley Repair and Appraise 2 pieces of jewelry. Rifat Hassan and Nihall Mumtaz With the King Tut Exhibit. Trade work for over 36 Major Chains from Zales to Sams.

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