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Knitting/shape armhole and neck on childs slipover jumper


Hi Carol,
I hope you can help me. I have recently started knitting beyond the usual safe projects e.g.scarfs etc. and decided to knit this slipover V neck jumper for my grandson who is five. I was fine until it came to the shaping armhole and neck on the front side of the slipover. the pattern which reads as follows..... I have 60 stitches to start with then on next row I
k2tog,k26 k2tog, turn and work this side first 28 stitches. (This I have done)
it then says dec. 1 st at armhole edge on next 4 rows, then on 2 foll alt. rows and at the same time dec. 1 st. at neck edge on 2nd and every foll. alt. row to 18 stitches.
Dec. 1 stitch at neck edge only on 2nd and every foll. alt. row to 14 stitches then on every foll. 4th row to 11 stitches, continue shaping until front matches back to start of shoulder shaping ending with a ws row. Can you explain this for me.

It then goes onto shaping the shoulder which I think I understand ..

cast off 4 sts. at beg. of next and foll. alt. row. Work 1 row. cast off rem. 3 sts. with right side facing rejoin M to remaining sts. k3 tog, k to last 2 sts, k 2 tog... 28 sts.

What i also dont understand is the following which says
Work to match first side, reversing shapings, working an extra row before start of shoulder shaping.

Carol I hope you understand this and can help me as it is the first time I have attempted to knit something a bit more daring than a blanket or a scarf
cheers Linda

Row 1 K2tog, k26, k2tog, TURN.  
Row 2: Knit these same 28 stitches in pattern.  
This is the beginning of either the left front or the right front.
Row 3: k2tog, knit in pattern (27 stitches) Turn.
Row 4 knit 25 stitches, k2 tog (26 stitches)[decrease row 1]
row 5: k 2 tog, knit in pattern (25 stitches) [decrease row 2]
row 6 knit 23 stitches, k2tog (24 stitches) [decrease row 3]
row 7: k 2 tog, knit in pattern (23 stitches) [decrease row 4}
row 8 knit in pattern over 21 stitches k2tog = 22 stitches
row 9 k 2tog, knit 18 stitches, k2 tog (neck edge) =20 stitches
row 10 knit 20 stitches
row 11 k 2tog, knit 16 stitches, k 2tog (neck edge)=18 stitches
row 12: knit
row 13: knit 16 stitches, k2tog at neck edge. = 17 stitches
row 14 knit
row 15: knit 15 stitches, k2tog at neck edge = 16 stitches
row 16: knit
Row 17: knit 14 stitches, k2tog at neck edge = 15 stitches
row 18 knit
row 19 knit 13 stiches , k2tog at neck edge = 14 stitches
rows 20, 21, 22 knit
row 23 dec 1 stitch at neck edge = 13 stitches
rows 24,25,26, knit
row 27 dec 1 stitch at neck edge = 12 stitches
rows 28, 29, 30: knit
row 31 dec 1 stitch at neck edge = 11 stitches
continue kniting without decreasing until this front matches the back up to where you began to shape the shoulders of the back and shape the shoulder of this front.

now go down to where you left stitches unworked and make the other front.  The arm shaping will be on the "outside" of the piece, the neck shaping in the middle.  If this is a round neck, there should be some neck stitchs (those right under the chin) still unworked.  These will be part of the neck ribbing.  


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Carol Forbes


I can answer questions about machine knitting. I am familiar with most made-in-Japan machines, main beds and ribbers. I am most familiar with Studio and Brother. I am not familiar with Passap.


I was a Studio and a Brother dealer for ten years in Wisconsin. I still knit and design every day.

none but you can see my work on my website

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