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Land Rover Repair/Engine Blown


ED wrote at 2006-11-01 08:51:59
Contact RPI engineering in England, they can sell you a short or long block with flanged or "Top hat liners" will will never move again! The cracked block with the resulting sleeve moving down happen to 80% of late model Rover motors over time, It's a shame that Rover tried to save a few pennies and never bothered to modify the block this way! Cheaper to replace a few motors under warranty!  By the way, the block is shot and can't be repaired, save your money!

gary mathos wrote at 2006-11-12 16:34:18
Another thing to remember is if you have been driving a considerable amount with the head gasket blown, to have the oil checked for coolant contamination. This can cause premature bearing failure down the road. If you have a high mileage engine, I would just swap it out for a rebuilt or used unit other than paying for head gasket repairs that may have you back for more repairs later. In my experience it is cheaper to get the quote, buy the part yourself, then show up to a non dealer for repair.  

John in Ga wrote at 2007-06-25 15:23:27
I also had the same problem with the engine overheating I am an ASE Certified mechanic and this engine is a throw away at best. I also had #8 cyl liner slide down. I had a machine shop install 2 liners . a good machine shop can do it. The machine shop I used charged 640.00 for 2 liners,decking the block installing new cam bearings,cleaning the block,installing new pistons on the rods and shot peening the rods. The block cannot be overbored like most engines for one reason Landrover does not offer .010,.020 oversized pistons you have to go back to standard . I also like my disco and cannot afford to buy another vechile so I decided to rebuild it myself,it is challanging to say the least,the pistons had to be special orderd from the UK if you need parts for yours try rovers north in VT they have the best prices around. as for used engines BEWARE I went that route at first bought an engine for 1000.00 put it in and it had 3 dead cyls. I did a compression check and the valves were bad I took the engine back to the place to get my money back and I had to imply Great bodily harm to him if he didn't cough up my grand which he handed over quickly after that. I did not like doing that but I am Not about to give up a grand plus my labor with out a fight. be careful who you deal with not everyone knows how to work on landrovers get solid ref's  Good luck with your project by the way the 640.00 machine shop bill was labor only I supplied the L/R parts they did supply the liners  John

Snapon_Man38 wrote at 2010-01-30 04:27:32
I work in the shop at a Land Rover dealer, you are not being ripped off, this is a common problem post 96, usually the block gets a microscopic crack(s) behind the sleeve THIS IS NOT REPAIRABLE!!! the only and I mean the ONLY WAY TO FIX IT is to replace the block, the fellows above especially the formula 1 race car owner DO NOT KNOW ANYTHIN about the aluminum sleeved type blocks used in the Land Rover off road utility vehicles. There is absolutly no way to repair the block/sleeve assembly, sorry but 5000K is about fair for a engine/rebuild that has a decent warranty. You can believe this is the final word on the subject 22 yrs experience specifically on Land Rover & BMW. The head gaskets are relatively weak on these, when it overheated from a fire ring control failure it most likely fatigued the block beind the sleeve, the resulting failure causes steam to shoot from behind the sleeve, also a complete rebuild is recommended due to the fact that after 60 to 70k the cam lobes and tappets tend to show lots of wear REPLACE ALL. I know its an old question, but the lack of knowledge, and judgemental attitude from some had me going people with absolutly no experience with these engines are telling you the wrong info and accusing what is probably an honest technician of "pulling your chain" SHAME ON YOU... Please get ahold of that brain-mouth thing guys. I would love to help you with this project but alas its prolly already complete 5 yrs later and I am on the east coast.  

Nate wrote at 2013-07-27 02:03:16
And this guy before me had last word and WRONG info

Yes, the problems that happen with liners, cracks behind same and head gaskets, cam wear etc... All true...

Fix is more common now with the top hat sleeves that have I rings sealing bottoms.  Makes for a wet sleeve design vs dry sleeve design.  I can't comprehend why anyone would do less than all cylinders.  It's apart, it's stripped..... Do it right.  Putting sleeves in some can distort companion cylinders as well so do em all. The Darton sleeve is interference by .002-.003 and once old sleeves are bored out and then bored and cut for top hat, they are pressed in heating block and inserting cold sleeves. Held in place a little proud of the deck till cooled.  Decks surfaced and sleeves are finish bored to the pistons going in.  I recommend head studs vs torque to yield bolts.  Interestingly the fatigue and failure of walls behind liners generally line up with head bolt depth... Most of the engines have had head gaskets once as well so the theory in part is the stretch bolts cause weakness due to pull especially when overdone. Studs are static and don't hurt the threads and are reusable.

As far as oversized pistons, again, false about them not being available.  I'm running a 4.8 sleeved block with forged pistons.  Not uncommon, not average either.   Rods and crank are forged and engine is internally balanced, internals are robust!

I have two in my shop now that I'm sending off to have tophats installed and what not.  One with a #5 sleeve issue.  Turner engineering in the UK can supply the Darton sleeves, they are the only source I'm told.  All parts are available through them and shipped DHL.  I buy from them occasionally.

I will remind folks who are missing a basic point, this is your basic 215 Buick olds power plant from 61-63'. Rover improved it over the years with cross bolt mains and bigger displacement BUT, fact remains its much more like the old 215 than different. It's an old pushrod motor and GM made it....

It's the ancillaries and control systems that got complicated like every other vehicle.  Bosch-gems-Lucas are different management systems but the engine is just that... A pushrod v8.  Get the homework done, plan on accepting it'll never be a rational and cost effective choice to rebuild and make peace with why you still want to... Then do it..    Unless it grenaded or melted into a puddle of alloy, it's likely rebuild able.

I wouldn't mess with old motors as the inherent problem exists with the sleeves until that is remedied.

Another issue is operating temp extremes and poor gauge setup.  Gotta see the real temps and not rely on the gauge in dash. The motor can run upwards of 244 degrees BEFORE gauge moves off middle reading.   That'll kill any engine if left unresolved.  An aluminum Block is that much more susceptible

BTW- also ASE master tech- shop owner and have owned 4 land rovers, currently two.  And I know these vehicles.   No offense to land rover dealer techs but many are schooled that things get replaced, not rebuilt and the conditioning creates a lot of water money and bad feelings towards dealerships

PT Schram wrote at 2016-01-23 18:22:11
I have been working on nothing but Rovers for the past 15 years.

I simply do not understand that hatred so many have for what I consider to be a most elegant engine.

ALL of the issues I see with Rover block failures are due to either poor machining from the factory (one specific instance) or owner ignorance in that for some reason the typical Land Rover owner refuses to consider the necessity of simple visual observations that would recognize imminent problems and correcting them. Simply checking one's coolant level on a daily basis would avoid almost all engine failures.

Parts are not difficult to find and if one utilizes the correct parts source, everything is available from oversize pistons and bearings to larger displacement engines.

Basically, if you're not going to maintain your vehicle, don't consider owning a Land Rover. IF and only if, you are the kind of person who wishes to have a close and personal relationship with your vehicle, a Land Rover might be well suited to you.

I currently own 18 Land Rovers and have owned many more, most of which were sold to new owners, but there are at least five or ten disassembled and their parts awaiting an opportunity to keep yet another on the road for the foreseeable future.

I was certified in engine repair so long ago, the certifying body was NIASE, not just ASE. 1981 First certification date, recertified only once as the test hadn't changed.

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John McInnis


Land Rover Discovery. I've had most of the common mechanical failures, altenator, water leaks, wiper failure, door/hinge problems, roof rust, floor rust, loads of electrical problems. Remember, I'm not a dealer or a mechanic, just an owner like most of you.


Owner of a Discovery. I've had many mishaps with our Disco but I still like this vehicle. Talk to a fellow LR owner instead of a dealership rep. I'm not in this for the money. I'm just an owner who wants to help others.

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