AboutSean J Murphy, LA Expertise I can answer almost any question related to design, installation, pricing of landscaping and hardscaping. I am not a horticulturist though so I can not answer questions on pests or diseases of plants. I also can answer questions related to pools, water features, ponds, lighting, grading, drainage, walls, patios, decks and much more.
Experience I have been doing landscaping since I was 8 years old. My family owned a nursery in Florida when I was a teen and I owned and operated several lawn and landscape companies over the years. I have since completed 6 years of in Landscape Architecture at Purdue University and have a Bachelors degree in Landscape Architecture. I have been practicing professionally for 13 years in Atlanta and the south east US. I have worked for some of the best and most well know firms and personalities in landscaping and my work has won many awards. I have worked for the likes of Disney, the 1996 Olympic games, and REIT Post Properties(Atlanta, Dallas, Austin, NY, Tampa, Orlando). I know many of the plants in Georgia and Florida plus surrounding states. I have passed the Georgia Landscape Architects Licensure Exam and can legally call myself a Landscape Architect Lisc. # 001156
I am currently the Department Manager of the Planning and Landscape Architecture Department of a local Multi-Disciplinary firm and used to own and operate Amenity Architects LLC. you may preview our work at www.amenityarchitects.com. My new employer is SoutheasternEngineering, Inc. see www.seenginering.com
I am also part owner in the family business Murphy's Garden Art also see at www.murphysgardenart.com.
Organizations American Society of Landscape Architects,
Keep Smyrna Beautiful,
ULI,
Smyrna Downtown Development Authority,
Smyrna Downtown Task Force,
Publications Landscape Architect and Specifier News,
Atlanta Homes Magazine,
Landscape Architecture Magazine,
Coastal Living, Magazine
Education/Credentials Pinellas County Center for the Arts 1984 - 1988,
Bachelors Degree in Landscape Architecture - Purdue University, 1994,
Mike Lynn Graphics Workshop 1994,
University of Georgia Wetland Delineation Certification 1995,
Post University Mini MBA 2000,
Edinburgh College of Art - 1 year co-op 1993,
Intern Smallwood Reynolds Stewart and Stewart Architects Atlanta1993,
Awards and Honors ASLA Merit Award 1994 Mined Land Project IN,
ACI 1st Place for Hardscape Design / Installation 1999 Biltmore Atlanta.
Coastal Living Idea House Design 2005/2006.
South Eastern Flower Show People's Choice Award for best garden design,
Many more!!! too many to list here
Past/Present clients
Georgia Governor Roy Barnes,
The State of Georgia,
City of Powdersprings,
City of Stockbridge,
Post Properties,
Bayfair Homes,
John Willis Homes,
Pulty Homes,
Serenbe Development,
Mayor of Smyrna-Georgia Max Bacon,
Question I live in Baton Rouge, La. We recently purchased a home that has a 60 ft.wide front yard, 45ft of that being the house itself and 35ft deep.The problem is there is a 30 year live oak sitting in the middle of the yard and a 6FT.sweet olive tree right behind it.I want to know if i move the olive will it hurt the tree. Also I really could use some landscaping ideas for this yard? HELP ME
Answer If you move any tree it will hurt the tree. If you are asking will it hurt the live oak, that depends on how close and how you dig out the olive. The question is can you minimize the injury enough to make the tree survive. I have no direct experience with sweet olives. However, most trees have similar issues when transplanted. It is generally best to transplant in dormant seasons, late fall/winter/early spring. You need to be sure you get enough root ball...10 inches MINIMUM for every one inch of tree caliper. So a 2" tree needs about 20 to 24" diameter root ball. You also should root prune a couple months before to get the tree to generate new feeder roots within the root ball. (Root pruning is digging a trench about 12" deep around the tree where you intend to dig it up but not digging under the tree or pulling the tree out. Fill the trench with peat moss and spread recommended amounts root growth stimulants on exposed roots. Lastly when you go to move three, be sure to carefully pull it loose and not break up the root ball. Set it on a cart or something to move it with the least disturbance. Then at the new location be sure you have prepped the hole with loose planting soil, fertilizer, composted peat, etc. and filled it with water. Mix it up till it has a consistency of a thick soup. Set the tree root ball into this so that the materials in the hole are actually forced out as the tree settles in. This grantees no air pockets and a good fresh drink for the tree on its first day at the new location. Finally pack it in with a shovel or your heel and create a saucer of raised dirt around the tree trunk. The saucer is used to retain water that you give the tree periodically over the next month while it re-establishes itself.
Also put 2-3" of cypress mulch around the trunk to slow evaporation from the root ball.
