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About Sean J Murphy, LA
Expertise
I can answer almost any question related to design, installation, pricing of landscaping and hardscaping. I am not a horticulturist though so I can not answer questions on pests or diseases of plants. I also can answer questions related to pools, water features, ponds, lighting, grading, drainage, walls, patios, decks and much more.
Experience
I have been doing landscaping since I was 8 years old. My family owned a nursery in Florida when I was a teen and I owned and operated several lawn and landscape companies over the years. I have since completed 6 years of in Landscape Architecture at Purdue University and have a Bachelors degree in Landscape Architecture. I have been practicing professionally for 13 years in Atlanta and the south east US. I have worked for some of the best and most well know firms and personalities in landscaping and my work has won many awards. I have worked for the likes of Disney, the 1996 Olympic games, and REIT Post Properties(Atlanta, Dallas, Austin, NY, Tampa, Orlando). I know many of the plants in Georgia and Florida plus surrounding states. I have passed the Georgia Landscape Architects Licensure Exam and can legally call myself a Landscape Architect Lisc. # 001156
I am currently the Department Manager of the Planning and Landscape Architecture Department of a local Multi-Disciplinary firm and used to own and operate Amenity Architects LLC. you may preview our work at www.amenityarchitects.com. My new employer is SoutheasternEngineering, Inc. see www.seenginering.com
I am also part owner in the family business Murphy's Garden Art also see at www.murphysgardenart.com.
Organizations
American Society of Landscape Architects,
Keep Smyrna Beautiful,
ULI,
Smyrna Downtown Development Authority,
Smyrna Downtown Task Force,
Publications
Landscape Architect and Specifier News,
Atlanta Homes Magazine,
Landscape Architecture Magazine,
Coastal Living, Magazine
Education/Credentials
Pinellas County Center for the Arts 1984 - 1988,
Bachelors Degree in Landscape Architecture - Purdue University, 1994,
Mike Lynn Graphics Workshop 1994,
University of Georgia Wetland Delineation Certification 1995,
Post University Mini MBA 2000,
Edinburgh College of Art - 1 year co-op 1993,
Intern Smallwood Reynolds Stewart and Stewart Architects Atlanta1993,
Awards and Honors
ASLA Merit Award 1994 Mined Land Project IN,
ACI 1st Place for Hardscape Design / Installation 1999 Biltmore Atlanta.
Coastal Living Idea House Design 2005/2006.
South Eastern Flower Show People's Choice Award for best garden design,
Many more!!! too many to list here
Past/Present clients
Georgia Governor Roy Barnes,
The State of Georgia,
City of Powdersprings,
City of Stockbridge,
Post Properties,
Bayfair Homes,
John Willis Homes,
Pulty Homes,
Serenbe Development,
Mayor of Smyrna-Georgia Max Bacon,
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You are here: Experts > Home/Garden > Exterior Decorating > Landscaping & Design > Limestone retaining wall on a sand pit
Landscaping & Design - Limestone retaining wall on a sand pit
Expert: Sean J Murphy, LA - 8/13/2008
Question
I am attempting to build a dry laid limestone retaining wall in a new housing development that sits on an old sand pit. So, the soil is PURE sand for 40+ feet down. The max height of each wall will be 3 feet. The land use above the wall will be turf and/or mulched tree/shrub beds. So, there will be a 3 to 4" cap of clay over the sand followed by approximately one foot of soil (all trucked in).
-Is a subgrade needed (crushed compacted rock)?
-How far below grade does the limestone need to go (more than 6")?
-I'm looking at 2' deep block (is that enough, can I get buy with less)?
-any other ideas tips?
Thanks So Much!
-Ryan
Answer
Yes generally you still should use a crushed aggregate footing probably 10-12" thick/deep and extending 10-12" beyond each face of the wall. If you live in an area subject to significant freezing and heaving of soil you may need a more substantial footer including concrete. Sand comes in many forms (some better than others when speaking of compaction)Consult a local structural engineer if you are planning to build several successive walls of 3 feet each. Your footing needs to be below the frost line and the bottom of the first course of stone should also be several inches below the frost line on top of the footing you construct. I have no idea where you are from this email so you'll have to look up your frost line.
I suggest a friendly call to a local wall builder, pretend to be considering a wall job and ask how they generally do their footings.
best of Luck
Sean J Murphy
www.amenityarchitects.com
www.seengineering.com
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