AboutMark Expertise Design of landscape structures and design of planting arrangements in the landscape. I usually do not answer questions of a horticultural nature or about growing plants or gardening unless they are related to design. I will answer these questions at my discretion. I will answer maintenance questions at my discretion,usually when they are related to design. I am a landscape designer. I am not a contractor or a gardener.
Here are example categories of problems I can help you with: Design of residential walks,low walls,low retaining walls,fences,drainage systems,arbors,plant selection,xeriscapes (low water use landscapes),rain garden design,rain water harvesting,permeable paving,sustainable drainage. No advise on an architectural or engineering level.
I do not perform actual design work through this site. I only provide suggestions and advice.
I am a skilled draftsman and can advise you about the kind of drawings,permits and construction documents you may need for your landscape project. Any landscape project should be layed out on a drawing but larger projects in particular,that may be contracted out,should have drawings and specifications for cost and quantity estimates and for competitive bids. A drawing and specifications will also become part of any contract made with a contractor and enhances the clients protection.
Experience Landscape concept plan for a 30,000 square feet housing site. Involved site recon by pace measurements and photographs and a site analysis and a site analysis report and recommendations and a preliminary cost estimate. Design elements included canopy trees,shrub cover,accent flowers,trash receptacles,benches and planters.
Landscape concept plan for a 7,000 square feet site for a community center. Involved site recon by tape measurements and photographs,a site analysis and the creation of 3 conceptual designs for the site.
Work was done through a local professional design center. Design elements included
tree garden,playground,sitting area,lawn,cooking area,lighting and concrete and brick paving.
Landscape concept plan for a 3,000 square feet housing site. Involved site recon by tape measurements and photographs and a site analysis.
Concluded in 3 concept designs for the site,shown at a formal presentation,a site analysis and recommendations. Work was done through a community volunteer program. Design elements included decks,a playground and fencing.
Briefly as draftsman for landscape designer/gardener.
Conceptual landscape design for residence. Involved site recon by tape and pace measurements and site analysis. Design included covered patio area,ground cover and flower beds.
Two years experience as draftsman for transportation department in engineering firm and for engineering consultants to phone company. Duties consisted of plotting topography.
Survey crew member. General assistant to surveyor. Work was done for U.S. Army and County Highway Department. No instrument work. Duties included tape measurement,holding graduated survey rod and plumb bob for sighting and clearing brush.
Marketed Landscape Design Services. Brochure writing,promotional material and marketing graphics.
Education/Credentials Course in Computer Aided Drafting. 700 hours in AutoCad 2000. 700 hours to date on AutoCad Light 2000.
Certificate in Manual Drafting. 1200 hours drafting time.
Course in Civil Engineering Technology. (One Semester)
Awards and Honors From Civil Engineer:
I am very impressed with your work and with the obvious thought you have put into the marketing of your venture. It was especially good to see a print of that job we discussed on the phone. I wish you much luck with the venture as I do with your plans for school. Im darn proud of you buddy. And by the way,when I get my license,maybe you will consider me for a consulting job down the road. I hope to get together with Rick sometime soon and I would really like to show him your stuff if its ok with you. From all these questions you ask I get the feeling that you are genuinely interested and have put alot of thought into the idea and process of landscape architecture and if you could possibly afford the cost I would urge you to take some classes in the areas you are most interested in. The subject is not so simple as it appears,mixing science and engineering with art and a certain amount of religion to create a comfortable and pleasing balance between man and nature. A thoughtful soul like yours can do this but it can be a lifes work getting it right.
Question QUESTION: I live in MA. and recently installed pavers over my exiting concrete slab and stairs using SRW, a concrete adhesive. My question is what type of sand or should I use stone dust too sweep in between the pavers.
ANSWER: Hello,
You should not use sand or dust between the pavers. You should set the pavers in mortar. Setting pavers in sand over a concrete base will trap water between the pavers and the base because there is no place for the water to drain. The water should drain down vertically and thats how things would take place if there were gravel or earth under the sand but it cannot take place with a concrete base.
Setting the pavers in mortar will create an impermeable surface that sheds water. Good luck. Let me know if I can be of further help.
Hi Mark, Thanks for your advice: Since I have already installed all my pavers with SRW I think I have only a few choices of getting some type of mortar in between them, and if you know of any others could you please share them with me. As I look at it, I could purchase the mortar in a tube and try to get it in between and down as far as possible, or I could purchase a bag of mortar mix and sweep it in dry hoping light moisture will harden it to the point where it will keep water out. (This is my top choice) If this is possible is there any special type of mortar I should use? I probably should have talked with other professionals before I started this project and get there advice. I’m a pretty handy person and try and do all my work myself with great results. This paver job looks awesome, my wife loves it and I would like for it to last for years. If we lived in a warmer climate water and ice would not be a factor. Your input would be appreciated.
Best Regards,
Rick
Answer Hello,
A dry mix swept into the joints will not obtain the hardness necessary to make it impermeable and you will still get moisture penetration into the joints. These type of dry joints are typically used on flagstone and other paving set on sand and gravel beds.
The recommended minimum joint width for mortared paving is 25mm(0.98 inch)but you might still get good results with a narrower joint width. Use a Class 1 mortar. This mortar may also be labeled as type 60. I used this type of mortar on some "crazy paving"(broken pieces of concrete to form a path)in my own backyard about a year ago and the joints are still holding well. The size of the joints there varies from about a half inch up to 2 inches. The mortar bag label will state if the mortar is good for paving.
Mortar purchased in a tube will get very expensive. It would probably require not much more effort to simply trowel the mortar into the joints.
I suppose the adhesive may give you some advantage in avoiding delamination (the shearing of the pavers from the base). Water penetrating the joints will foster that and the freeze/thaw cycle will aid the process. Actually,in colder climates,a sand/gravel base can be better since concrete and mortared joints tend to dislodge and crack in temperature extremes. The ground under the paving is always expanding and contracting.
Good luck. Let me know if I can be of further help.
