AboutMark Expertise Design of landscape structures and design of planting arrangements in the landscape. I usually do not answer questions of a horticultural nature or about growing plants or gardening unless they are related to design. I will answer these questions at my discretion. I will answer maintenance questions at my discretion,usually when they are related to design. I am a landscape designer. I am not a contractor or a gardener.
Here are example categories of problems I can help you with: Design of residential walks,low walls,low retaining walls,fences,drainage systems,arbors,plant selection,xeriscapes (low water use landscapes),rain garden design,rain water harvesting,permeable paving,sustainable drainage. No advise on an architectural or engineering level.
I do not perform actual design work through this site. I only provide suggestions and advice.
I am a skilled draftsman and can advise you about the kind of drawings,permits and construction documents you may need for your landscape project. Any landscape project should be layed out on a drawing but larger projects in particular,that may be contracted out,should have drawings and specifications for cost and quantity estimates and for competitive bids. A drawing and specifications will also become part of any contract made with a contractor and enhances the clients protection.
Experience Landscape concept plan for a 30,000 square feet housing site. Involved site recon by pace measurements and photographs and a site analysis and a site analysis report and recommendations and a preliminary cost estimate. Design elements included canopy trees,shrub cover,accent flowers,trash receptacles,benches and planters.
Landscape concept plan for a 7,000 square feet site for a community center. Involved site recon by tape measurements and photographs,a site analysis and the creation of 3 conceptual designs for the site.
Work was done through a local professional design center. Design elements included
tree garden,playground,sitting area,lawn,cooking area,lighting and concrete and brick paving.
Landscape concept plan for a 3,000 square feet housing site. Involved site recon by tape measurements and photographs and a site analysis.
Concluded in 3 concept designs for the site,shown at a formal presentation,a site analysis and recommendations. Work was done through a community volunteer program. Design elements included decks,a playground and fencing.
Briefly as draftsman for landscape designer/gardener.
Conceptual landscape design for residence. Involved site recon by tape and pace measurements and site analysis. Design included covered patio area,ground cover and flower beds.
Two years experience as draftsman for transportation department in engineering firm and for engineering consultants to phone company. Duties consisted of plotting topography.
Survey crew member. General assistant to surveyor. Work was done for U.S. Army and County Highway Department. No instrument work. Duties included tape measurement,holding graduated survey rod and plumb bob for sighting and clearing brush.
Marketed Landscape Design Services. Brochure writing,promotional material and marketing graphics.
Education/Credentials Course in Computer Aided Drafting. 700 hours in AutoCad 2000. 700 hours to date on AutoCad Light 2000.
Certificate in Manual Drafting. 1200 hours drafting time.
Course in Civil Engineering Technology. (One Semester)
Awards and Honors From Civil Engineer:
I am very impressed with your work and with the obvious thought you have put into the marketing of your venture. It was especially good to see a print of that job we discussed on the phone. I wish you much luck with the venture as I do with your plans for school. Im darn proud of you buddy. And by the way,when I get my license,maybe you will consider me for a consulting job down the road. I hope to get together with Rick sometime soon and I would really like to show him your stuff if its ok with you. From all these questions you ask I get the feeling that you are genuinely interested and have put alot of thought into the idea and process of landscape architecture and if you could possibly afford the cost I would urge you to take some classes in the areas you are most interested in. The subject is not so simple as it appears,mixing science and engineering with art and a certain amount of religion to create a comfortable and pleasing balance between man and nature. A thoughtful soul like yours can do this but it can be a lifes work getting it right.
Question QUESTION: I have a very large spruce tree in my front yard. Since the grass around this tree is struggling to survive I am planning to lay down river rock on appr 3/4 of my front lawn. Do I have to remove the sod first or can I smother the grass with landscape fabric topped with river rock.
As a note, none of the lower branches of the spruce have been cut, thus the rock would be placed around and not under the tree
ANSWER: Hello,
There is no need to remove the sod. The sod will retain the soil and prevent erosion. Use a fabric rated for weed control. A fabric rated only for erosion control may have a more porous weave spacing and that will allow more weeds to grow. Weed fabric is best used with mulch. An organic mulch placed under the rocks will eventually degrade and become ineffective,so perhaps you could lay down a layer of small sized gravel or sand over the fabric and then lay the rocks over the gravel. I would suggest at a 2 inch layer of sand or gravel or sand. Because of its smaller pore spaces,sand would be more effective than gravel.
Of course,as you have indicated,the rock should not be placed directly under the tree,as this would impede the tree roots from getting water and air and possibly cause a crush hazard to the roots if the rocks are very heavy. Good luck. Let me know if I can be of further help.
QUESTION: Dear Mark
Thank you for this very informative reply. Rather than large river rock I was actually thinking of using the 1" - 2" size with only an occasional larger rock for decoration. Should I lay sand under this as well or would 2" of little rocks suffice?
Answer Hello,
The smaller size rocks will have relatively less space between them than larger rocks and so less weeds will grow,but you will still get some weeds. I would not think that you would get alot of weeds with this design,but a sand layer under the rocks should eliminate 99 percent of weeds and the sand makes a nice foundation for the rocks. The rocks will be less likely to settle into the soil if resting on a layer of sand. Sand has very good compressive strength.
If there will be foot traffic on the area the sand will prevent the rocks from being forced into the soil below and will improve the feel of the surface under foot. If this surface will get a good bit of foot traffic,then you might want to consider removing the sod and preparing a base for the sand or gravel by compacting the soil below.
The sod will expand and contract with the freeze/thaw cycle,more or less,depending on how well water drains on it and this will effect your layer of sand and gravel. Sand and gravel are flexible materials and this will compensate somewhat for any expansion and contraction. The sod will also be less stable than a compacted base of soil only, since the sod is composed of mainly organic material. I would suggest you cut any grass on the surface to as low a height as possilbe and compact the sod with a hand tamper,compaction machine or roller. Also, compact the sand and gravel in a similar manner. I am calling the 2 inch rocks you mentioned gravel here just for convenience.
Using sod as a base is not the best solution for a walking surface but for a lawn area that will receive only light foot traffic it will be adequate. The sod gives the advantage of holding the soil under the sand and gravel together and no mud will form under the sand and gravel and of course you will avoid the labor costs of removing the sod. As with all designs there are trade offs here. You have to decide what type of trade offs you want to make and what option you have more to gain from.
The smaller the size of the rocks,the less likely weeds will grow. Sand is just tiny rocks;the size of salt grains.
You also have to consider what thickness these materials will take. With a 2 inch layer of sand and then another 2 inches of gravel,thats a total of 4 inches. Will this surface even with the surrounding area. You will need some kind of edging to retain the material. The other option would be to remove the sod so that the material sits flush with the rest of the lawn or perhaps there are grade changes already existing that can be used. Good luck. Let me know if I can be of further help.
