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About Long Island Gardener
Expertise
How to grow the Perfect Lawn? If you live in the Northeast/Atlantic Coast, I have intelligent answers on grass selection, fertilizers, soil care, weed control, and lawnmowers. Although I have degrees in related fields, a person's real gardening skills are learned from trial and error. More important, I am strict about not using chemicals in the garden. Organic gardening is not just earth friendly and healthier for you, your children and your pets. It's less expensive and easier. You read that right. Less expensive and easier.

Experience
Homeowner for 15 years, 30 years of gardening for personal pleasure, college credits in horticulture and botany, volunteer docent at the local botanical gardens, and a whole library of gardening and landscaping books at home some 100 years old.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Landscaping > Lawns > Newly seeded area oer fertilized no growth

Lawns - Newly seeded area oer fertilized no growth


Expert: Long Island Gardener - 6/4/2008

Question
Hello, in mid April I had a walkway and patio installed and seeded the new loam to patch ripped up areas.  When I did this I put Scotts turfbuilder on it, very little growth occurred.  A couple of weeks ago I reseeded with a Shade seed as these areas get sun and shade thinking that was the problem and then, without thinking, put a starter fertilizer down with it, again no growth.  I realize now I overfertilized these areas and is the reason there is no grass growing.  What can I do and when to get this going in the right direction again???  I live in NE Massachusetts.
Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.
Regards,
David

Answer
Scotts Turfbuilder 20-27-5 is high in chemical salts, but much of this will leach through your Soil and evaporate into thin air fairly quickly no matter how much you use.

So there may be something else that's wrong.

I'll assume you are diligent about things like watering since you are so over-diligent about fertilizing (sorry, could't resist).  So let's look at a few other possible explanations.

One is that your soil was too cold.  True, we are having a cool spring.  And Fescue -- the usual Shade grass component -- takes 1 to 2 weeks to sprout.  But 2 months later there is still no sign of life.  By now you should at least have seen SOME green fuzz on the Soil.  So no, it looks like this is not the reason.

Which brings us to Fusarium.  A Fungus.  And note that Fungus infections are a problem you find in Lawns that are heavily 'treated' and 'maintained' with products like Scotts Turfbuilder.  Notice how the laziest homeowners never get Fungus on their Lawns -- hmmm, what's up with that?

Plus you are growing this Grass in the shade -- prime Lawn Fungus destinations.

So my vote's with the Fusarium.  Not the Scotts Turfbuilder, although it contributed to your problem and is most certainly a co-conspirator.

Let's talk about Fusarium.

Scientists so far as I know have not officially established any link between Fusarium and Seed viability.  But people who deal with these things discuss it informally, and it is generally agreed that Fusarium heterosporum and Fusarium culmorum are suspects when you put down expensive Seed and get no germination.  Seems the Seed tends to decay or damp off before it can sprout. (This is different from Tall Fescue Fungal endophyte Neotyphodium coenophialum (aka 'Acremonium coenophialum'), which actually makes infected Tall Fescue healthier.)  Fusarium culmorum and F tricinctum attack established Lawns and cause 'Fusarium Blight',

Understand that there is a 90 percent minimum germination requirement for official seed certification -- and you have nothing.

Optimal temps for Tall Fescue growth is between 62 and 78 degrees F., with germination best at 68 to 86 degrees F.  Red Fescue likes cooler temps, germinating 59 to 77 degrees F.  You might try this Seed viability test descvribed by the  North Carolina State University Extension Service; you'll need paper towels and leftover Seed to confirm the cause of your barren landscape was environmental, not non-viable Seed:

www.cals.ncsu.edu/agcomm/forage/#athome

Anyway that's my opinion, for what it's worth.  Let me know.

THE LONG ISLAND GARDENER  

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