Locksmithing/Remove Deadbolt

Advertisement


Question
James,

I just purchased my first home and would like to change the locks.  The house was built in '86 and I'm sure these are the original locks.  I wish I can remember the name of the lock.  It begins with "La..".  The new house it out of town and we haven't moved in yet.

Question is, how do I get that deadbolt off??  It has a keyhole on both the outside and the inside and no screwholes except for the ones on the side of the door.

I appreciate any help you can offer!

Thanks,
Randy

Answer
Hello Randy,

There are a few possibilities as to brand.  Lori, Lockwood, Dexter, Ilco, Weiser & Weslock all have, or currently manufacture, locks that are designed like what you described.

The only way I know of on most of those locks to remove the deadbolt from the door is to insert the key that operates the lock, then turn it about 1/4 turn to the right or left.  There should be holes that appear covered at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions before you turn the key.  After turning the key, the screw heads should appear.

These locks were designed to keep people from removing the lock without the proper key so that someone couldn't tamper with the lock.  The screws on the side of the door that hold the latch bolt in position just hold the latch bolt not the lock itself.

The other possibility here is that if you remove the screws in the side of the door, the plate around the bolt should come off.  Then you could see inside the door, next to the bolt.  There then would be a small set screw that holds the deadbolt in place.  This type of deadbolt is a mortise cylinder.  Mortise cylinders don't have screws that hold them in place.  The cylinder itself is screwed into the mechanical lock body.  Most of these types are used strickly for commercial, but some have been on residential doors.  To remove this type, remove the screws on the edge of the door, then use a flashlight if needed to see inside the cavity of the door.  You should see a small, very small, set screw.  Unscrew it about 3 turns, but don't remove it all the way.  Then insert the key in the lock all the way, then pull it out about 1/4".  Use the key as a screwdriver to unscrew the lock from the door.  Do this for both sides of the door.

If neither one of these works, call a Locksmith and have them come out to do this.  You should also have a Locksmith rekey all the locks on the house because there is no way to know for certain how many keys are out there.  Someone could just walk in whenever they wanted if you don't rekey the locks.  Installing new locks can be expensive.  Some locks are cheap, do NOT buy them as you get what you pay for.  They will not last and are not worth half what you would pay for them.  Most locks can be rekeyed and most Locksmiths charge a fair price to rekey them, usually half what you would pay for a new lock, a good one, plus their service fee.

My suggestion for a brand would be Schlage and they are usually available at Lowe's and other home centers.  They make several models to suit anyone's taste.  The next step up for a residential lock would be Sargent, which are mostly used on Industrial or Commercial applications.  Sargent locks are very expensive, upwards of $100 each, depending on model and grade (grade 1 is industrial - used for nursing homes, some schools and other high-traffic buildings; grade 2 is medium-end commercial grade - used mostly for factories, large and small businesses, some schools and other medium to high-traffic buildings; grade 3 is residential).

When installing a new deadbolt make sure that when you close the door and extend the bolt (lock the deadbolt) that the bolt extends fully (it will usually click).  If it doesn't extend fully it's not going to help you much since the bolt can then be pushed back into the door with a credit card.  If the bolt is fully extended it can only be pushed back into the door with a key or with the thumbturn on the inside.  You may have to chisel or use a 1" drill bit to make the hole in the doorjamb deeper to allow the bolt an unobstructed hole to fully extend.  I also suggest getting a strike plate that requires 4 screws.  The best ones have a plastic box that goes in the doorjamb first to cover the unsightly wood, then a thick plate, usually 1/8" or thicker, is screwed in using 3 to 4" #10 or #12 wood screws.  Then a cover plate is installed over that to cover the thick plate.  With 4 screws holding the strike plate, and the deadbolt fully extended, the only way someone is going to break in through that door is to break into the door itself.  Be sure not to drill or screw too far if you have sidelights next to the door (windows that are next to the door).

If you ever replace any exterior door on you new home, be sure to specify that the lock holes be drilled or prepped for 2-3/4" backset.  Most residential locks are installed with a 2-3/8" backset.  I feel that the extra 1/4" gives better protection.  Ever try to break a 1/4" sheet of plywood?  It sounds like a small amount, but when it's put that way most people understand my point.

Good luck with your new home.
James
Owner, J&M LOCK
Springfield, MO
www.jmlock.com

Locksmithing

All Answers


Answers by Expert:


Ask Experts

Volunteer


James

Experience

I have been Locksmithing since 1999 and own my own Locksmithing business. I have many years of hands-on experience through the many services I have performed for my customers. I've run my business the way I wanted, treating everyone as I would like to be treated and knowing that any customer could be my last if I didn't perform my locksmithing duties as I had promised.

Education/Credentials
I have a diploma in Masterkeying, Advanced Locksmithing & Locksmithing from Foley-Belsaw.

Past/Present Clients
US government, colleges, schools, city and state governments, large and small corporations, home owners.

©2012 About.com, a part of The New York Times Company. All rights reserved.