Experience Dealership line mechanic on MG, Triumph, Jaguar for 15 years, Instructor in commercial mechanics school 2 yr. Product information manager for piston and valve manufacture, Instructor & hotline answer man for import car parts importer 15 yrs.
Organizations Associate member SAE
EAA member
Publications Import Car magazine
Education/Credentials ASE Master Auto with L-1 certification up to 2000
Question Hi Howard,
I have a 74 BGT, and have pulled the engine, put in a complete clutch kit(Victoria British).I have rebuilt the master and slave cylinders,(no apparent scarring, replaced the hose to the slave cyl. but can't quite get the clutch to disengage. I've bleed the system multiple times according to instructions you've given in other advice.(and every other recommended way, check valves...) When the clutch is pushed, the slave moves about a half inch. (no leaks ), detected, but I can't get it into gear, when I try to push it into gear there is a slight engagement(car moves forward) If I put it in gear, then start the engine, the clutch is dragging slightly, reduces idle speed by several hundred rpm,(held stationary by brake) when I release the peddle, I have a solid clutch... (can rpm sync and drive around the neighborhood with aid of what clutch peddle I have). Since the slave and master don't leak, could I be blowing fluid by internally in the master cylinder? I'm using new Prestone synthetic dot 4 fluid.
In checking old MG Manuals, I found one reference to needing to remove some clips (used to hold the clutch springs during shipping) My Haynes manual didn't indicate this, so I didn't remove anything... did I miss something?
Also before I replaced the clutch, everything worked fine except for the clutch slipping...
Hope you can help me,
Jim
Answer Hi Jim,
First, how does the pedal feel. You should not have much free play, then the pedal should feel firm resistance as soon as the free-play is taken up. It is difficult to get all of the air out of a clutch system because of the large line. As you try to bleed downward an air bubble will rise in the line and bleeding keeps air in the line.
I found the best method to get the air out is to drain about half of the reservoir and take a pry bar and force the slave cylinder piston into it's bore by forcing the clutch arm with the pry bar. keep the reservoir cap loose to do this. It will fill the reservoir and exhaust any air into the reservoir. Now, push the clutch pedal down to the floor and let it up VERY SLOWLY. Then push it down again and let it up very slowly again and repeat this until you have a good feel of the clutch again. Then refill the reservoir.
I only seen a few pressure plates with clips and the ones I seen would have come out as soon as you started the engine and stepped on the clutch. This would have made a lot of noise too. I think those clips were only used on the old coil spring type pressure plates and I don't remember seeing any on the newer diaphragm type used now.
If a master cylinder is leaking around the piston it is easy to test. You just pump the pedal up and hold it down with it in gear and just sit there a minute. If the clutch starts to engage all by itself then the seals are leaking if it stays as-is even if it is dragging a little then that is not the problem.
Next question, did you have any difficulty getting the transmission to fit up to the engine when assembling? I have seen mechanics have to fight it and in the process warp the clutch disk. Did you just pull the engine or did you pull the engine and trans together as a unit and put the trans on to the engine on the floor?
