Major Appliances/whirlpool washer


Sorry I inadvertently deleted prior email.  When I checked it after running the belt which was in otherwise good condition had dropped off the motor pulley and burned.  The agitator wouldn't turn by hand and the tank was full of water. The motor was not running.  The three pulleys turned easily by hand and upon checking the agitator it now moves.  I'm wondering if the solenoid suds valve failed and the belt broke because the tank was full when it tried to spin?, or if the belt just jumped off because it had stretched. I looked for the suds valve but can't seem to locate it. Should you assume that to be the possible problem, how can I get the timer in the proper position to actuate it to check? Being able to actuate it would permit the tank to drain and make it easier to work on in any case.  I assume the pump runs constantly but it is necessary for this valve to open in order to drain the tank as lowering the howe doesn't accomplish that.  I apologize for not following directions with the model and serial initially--Thanks, Clem.

ANSWER: The shifting process is done by the energized wigwag assembly mounted on the transmission and wigwags back and forth.  It has two solenoids on it.  Remove the wires and then ohm out the coils one at a time.  What is the value of these coils.  If the wigwag is defective, it will not shift thus energizing the pump leter to go from recirculating to drain.  

Let me know what you find...

Waiting to hear from you,
Eric and Ann Campion

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QUESTION: The left solenoid is 450 ohms, the right one works because I watched it while playing with the timer.  According to the circuit diagram there is a suds valve that I can't seem to locate.  is it your assumption that the belt would burn on the motor shaft if the spin cycle tried to work with the tub full?

ANSWER: The suds cycle has nothing to do with draining the machine.  The wigwag gets energized pulling a plunger down and engaging various functions.  The 110 volts going to the solenoids comes from the timer.  Sincve the wigwag goes back and forth all the while the machine is running, the wires going to the wigwag have a tendency to break within the wire casing.  Since you confirm one is working, on the other one, run your fingernail along the wire going to the solenoid in question and see if you can feel a break within the casing of the wire.  If you suspect, pull on the wire and see if it stretches.  If it does, the wire section needs to be cut out and replaced with another new one.  Let me know what you find.  Eric

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QUESTION: i checked wires then played with the timer a little more and see that both solenoids are working--just didn't fiddle with it enough the ime I got the right one to work that I mentioned to you.  As I understand you the drain valve is inside the transmission and opens at appropriate time presumable before the spin.  Can't imagine what the suds valve does.  When the belt broke the agitator would not turn until I manually moved the pulleys and now it has freed up and turns easily.  The drum does not turn manually by gripping it and the filter screen is not stopped in the usual position so the spin must have been engaged when the belt jumped off the pulley onto the shaft.

The drain valve is the of the three pulleys.  It is energized by the wigwag which activates a solenoid plunger and shifts a sliding cam that shifts the arm on the pump to drain.  The tub does not turn because the brake is on when in the off position just out of spin.  If properly installed, the belt will not jump off.  Did all this happen when the belt broke and you tried to install a new one?


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Eric Campion


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