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Major Appliances/Kenmore ice maker cover removal


Mike wrote at 2007-06-11 18:22:57
I have the exact same problem with my expensive Kenmore Elite fridge.  I found some information that I am not sure about at.  It said to protect the front with some thin cardboard, use a hair dryer to warm up the plastic, and carefully pry it off with a putty knife.

Wayne wrote at 2007-06-30 11:56:04
Success!  The good news:  I was able to pop off the bezel with a plastic putty knife.  The bottom of the bezel has two notches where you can put the putty knife, I used plastic to prevent damage to the door face.  If you get it started, slide the knife to one side, angle it a little, and push up firmly with the knife while pushing down on the bezel, you should be able to pop off the bottom.  Then sliding the whole bezel up will allow you access to the ice dispenser mechanics.  The cover is easy to remove if you disconnect the plug - you need to lift the locking lever a little to disconnect it.

Under the bezel is another plate (has the light bulb attached) that has some small clips holding it in place, you can easily flex those to release it.  Tape this plate up out of the way, now you have access to the ice door mechanics.

Now the bad news:  The likely problem is that the right support for the door is cracked or broken off.  This is part of the entire plastic back insert for the freezer door.  In my case, I have some plastic repair made by Cool Chem.  I used that to glue the plastic piece back in place and I added two pieces of hardwood (toothpicks) to either side as additional reinforcement.  The ice door mechanics includes the door with a rubber seal plate, a hinge pin (looks like a nail), a spring to close the door, and a piston that slows down the movement so that any stray ice cubes fall out before it closes.

To re-assemble the door, put the hinge pin in so the head is to the right and the spring is on the pin.  The spring is oriented so that the ends are facing down the ice door.  The spring is not flat, so I oriented it so the bend puts less pressure on the door for closing.  It still seems to close OK, and this should help keep the broken piece from breaking again.  I'll check it in a couple days to see if the frost is still building up inside the freezer.  (Man, I wish we could use pictures here...)  To put the door back on, you need to insert the piston in the cylinder first.  Now, put the tip of the hinge pin in the left hole, the spring will start to push on the ice door while you do this.  Now lift the right side up enough to slip this over the right hinge support (that was broken, in my case), and you're done!

Replace the panels - don't forget to plug in that connector before you snap the bezel back in place.



greg wrote at 2011-05-05 02:21:34
The putty knife tends to slide under the whole assembly instead of between the bezel and the assembly body.  If you take out the water spill tray first, you might be able to pop off the bezel by pressing down on the lower part and pulling out at the same time.

DB wrote at 2013-03-21 00:11:38
Just fixed the same problem. Poor design on the spring pin bracket on the right side.  It breaks and allows the pin to drop out of place. Two small slots at the bottom of the cover let you pry it loose.  Remove the printed circuit board, being careful when disconnecting the electrical connections, especially the wide flat cable. A screw in the middle of the icemaked holds the actuator levers in place. Remove these. Now you can finally get at the assembly that holds the ice door closed with the shaft and spring. The slotted right side bracket that holds the pin will be cracked. This can be repaired using JB Weld and very small strips of cloth soaked in JB Weld. Only one layer on the inside, and you will need a small file to smooth this out the next day before the door bracket will fit back in place.  When you reassemble, the spring must be folded over toward the top front of the housing to get clearance to lift the right side of the pin up and into the retaining slot. Now reassembly can begin. When putting the printed circuit board back in place, the ice and water actuator arms must be carefully moved into place in the back side of the board where they press on small switches to activate their functions when pushed. Before connecting the wide electrical connection on the front panel, hold the panel behind the door handle or there is not enough cable length to move the panel in place. I spent over two hour filing the JB Weld and reassembing all components. This is a time consuming and detailed repair, but it does work.  

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