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QUESTION: Hello Expert

I am in the midst of creating my own skin product company

Here is my product list

Face Lotion
Oily
Dry
Normal

Body Lotion

Face Wash

Which oils are good for oily skin?
Which oils are good for dry skin?
Which oils are best for normal skin?
Which oils absorb into the skin fastest?
What is a common paraben free preservative I could use in a face wash?

Thanks for the help.

Tom

ANSWER: Hello Tom and thanks for contacting me. Kudos for having the courage and confidence to launch your very own skin care line! That's AWESOME! When I hear about this type of thing, it inspires me! To answer your question about different types of oils that work best for various different skin types, a paraben-free preservative for your face wash, and the fastest-absorbing oils, the details are below.

***Please note, I was not sure if you were asking about "carrier oils" for skin care or "essential oils"  for skin care, as they're BOTH commonly used on skin. So I listed what I believed you were asking about.

The oils below are natural "carrier oils" which are used to dilute essential oils before they are applied to the skin. Of course, these natural skin care oils are also used in many cream, lotion and Shea butter formulations for the skin.


OILY SKIN:  

*Grapeseed oil -  very light, non-greasy, hypoallergenic, rich in anti oxidants, mild odor and absorbs into the skin pretty well

*Hazelnut oil -  very light, non-greasy, penetrates well and used in many oily skin formulations. Hazelnut oil has astringent properties, causing the skin to contract, which can be helpful for large pores as well.

*Jojoba oil (my fav) -  This is commonly called an "oil" because it has some of the same characteristics of an oil, however this is really a liquid wax. This wonderful ingredient is very similar to the sebum (oil) found in our skin. Jojoba oil has excellent absorption properties and can regulate sebum (oil) production in the skin. Jojoba oil is extremely stable and can aid in controlling acne, as it is rich in iodine, which is no friend of acne bacteria. Jojoba has been shown in established studies to reduce fine wrinkles within hours of application.

*Hemp Seed oil -  Very "dry oil" that penetrates deeply into skin and is high in EFAs (essential fatty acids which is very helpful for developing healthy skin). Hemp oil usually leaves no oily film on skin and dries upon application relatively rapidly. Hemp oil has proven to do well for oily skin in particular. It has also proven to be helpful for eczema because it is rich in EFAs. Hemp oil, however, can be highly unstable, so it is essential to preseve it properly with a natural, oil-based preservative such as Rosemary Oleoresin or Vitmin E oil. Personally, I use Hemp seed oil, Jojoba oil and Shea Butter for my home made skin and hair care products I prepare for my family. They're wonderful!


DRY SKIN:

*Rosehip seed oil -   Highly moisturizing to dry skin conditions such as eczema, hyperkeratosis, and dehydrated skin. Rosehip seed oil is high in Vitamin C and is helpful in the reduction of stretch marks and wrinkles.

*Avocado oil -   A thick oil, rich in amino acids, lecithin, vitamins and minerals which are nourishing for skin and hair. Highly moisturizing

*Evening Primrose oil -  Rich in EFAs (essential fatty acids), anti inflammatory, increases skin's resistance to the sun's rays, and helps with blood circulation. This oil is exceptional for the treatment of eczema, dry skin, wrinkles, rosacea, and skin ulcers.


Tom, as for normal skin, (pretty perfect) it has no visible pores, excess oil, or acne. However, the skin care oils used for this skin type, depends on personal preference. For example, someone with normal skin may have fine lines or wrinkles, but does not like a heavier oil, so in this case, you would use Jojoba oil, as it penetrates skin leaving no oily residue, yet will help improve the appearance of wrinkles.

If someone with normal skin wanted a more moisturizing, slightly thicker oil, you would use Rosehip Seed Oil, or you would use Evening Primrose Oil, which helps with wrinkles also, but is more moisturizing. You get the point.

When it comes to a paraben-free preservative, there are a couple (or more) on the market for skin care formulators. They are:

Potassium Sorbate -   According to Livestrong, "Potassium sorbate has been generally recognized as safe for use in foods and personal care products. It has been cleared as a food preservative by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration based on extensive testing. Potassium sorbate is well-tolerated in most people, being easily metabolized. Allergic reactions are rare".

Tom, keep in mind that Potassium Sorbate is antimicrobial, anti fungal and anti mold. A pretty broad-spectrum paraben-free preservative that is commonly used. It is also water-soluble (to be used in water-based formulations such as face washes - most are water-based).

Another paraben-free preservative is Benzylalcohol-DHA . This one is very good for face washes as well. Can also be used in water-based formulations and is eco-certified. Tea Tree oil is great (I use this regularly myself and love it). Tea Tree oil is not just effective for acne, athlete's Foot, dandruff, etc., it is great as an all natural preservative in skin care formulations.

When Tea Tree essential oil is used in formulations, it cuts down on the need for additional preservatives, as it is anti bacterial, anti fungal, and anti viral. In fact, when I've published natural skin care recipe articles, I recommended this as a natural, effective preservative. Although some people like the scent of Tea Tree oil (including myself), others don't, so this will be left up to you as formulator of your own line. Nonetheless, it works very well.

Tom below, I've included links to two of several skin care ingredient supply companies I've done business with previously and I hope they will be a help to you in your quest for finding all you need to investigate your skin care formulating options. The first link below, will put you on the page with more info on the paraben-free preservative, Benzylalcohol-DHA . The second link will bring you to the page of various preservatives you can check out, before exploring the companies' other offerings. Hope this all helps and blessings to you in your new, exciting journey into the wonderful world of natural skin care!


Tara
http://naturallynubian.ecrater.com/

Making Cosmetics
http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Preservatives/Benzylalcohol-DHA-p21.html

Herbarie
http://www.theherbarie.com/Preservatives-Antioxidants-and-Chelating-Agents/


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: This is fantastic! Thanks for the quick response.

I have two oils I am considering using

Tamanu Oil
Apricot Kernel Oil

What is your opinion of the two? I have read mixed feelings on the Apricot Kernel oil as to which skin type it is most suited for. I have read both oily and dry skin...your opinion?

Also, I came across a paraben free preservative called Optiphen. Do you know much of it?

Lastly, do you know of any articles, readings or contacts that would be helpful as I begin to mix and match essential oils? Finding that right balance between aroma and health effectiveness for the skin is a difficult task.

Again I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. It is very helpful indeed.

Answer
Tom, Tamanu oil is also very fantastic! My apologies for not mentioning this one. I've used this one before as well! Fantastic for stretch marks, dry skin, acne, eczema, bug bites, rashes, and many other skin ailments. As for Apricot Kernel oil, I'm not all that impressed, it just moisturizes. I like oils that do more than just moisturize (I'm spolied). The ones I mentioned, plus the Tamanu oil are all multi tasking oils.

I'm a firm believer in ingredients and products that do more than one thing, as we're all too busy to be bothered with too many multiple steps to fix two or three skin issues. Why do that when one product/ingredient can address multiple issues? Optiphen is a good broad-spectrum, paraben-free preservative, too. Optiphen is good for emulsions, like lotions and creams. I've included a link for more specs on Optiphen and to two other online retailers I've also done business with.

These two online retailers can provide you with a variety of natural carrier oils, essential oils, herbs and other ingredients to experiment with as I've previously done. Another good thing, is you don't have to buy in bulk for experimenting (you can buy small quantities). Also, the company in the second link (Mountain Rose Herbs), sells organic Tamanu oil at the most reasonable price I've seen on the internet! Also, try to "Google" the terms "essential oil blending" ,
"aromatherapy blending instruction" , and "formulating with essential oils"  for tips. Tom, I'd appreciate it if you'll rate my answer if this has been helpful to you. Hope this helps and God bless.


Tara


More on Optiphen:
http://www.theherbarie.com/Optiphen.html

Essential oils and carrier oils:
http://www.fromnaturewithlove.com/soap/EssentialOils.asp

More Essential oils:
http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/aroma/ess.html  

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Tara Logan-Hearn

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I will, according to my knowledge and experience, answer questions that involve providing information, tips, and advice in an effort to help one improve the following common ethnic and black skin care concerns:

Although make-up is not my specialty, I'm happy to help with advice on caring for the skin while wearing makeup. I affirm that I can not answer questions to which attention by a doctor is necessary.

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I've written for Bella Online, Beauty and Sugar, Self Growth and Oily Skin Blog. I've written the e-book entitled, "Achieving Flawless Skin of Color - 2 Easy Steps to Clear, Even-toned Skin From the Inside Out", which is now published.

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