miceforlife wrote at 2015-05-20 05:57:32
Hi, mouse breeder here. Okay first off make sure you keep her in a darker room, with not much action. I would not recommend this for pet mice, but they are wild try to keep them that way. This momma on her own would have her pups in a dark place away from any human interaction. Keep away other than for feeding/watering. If she will not take to a bottle, give her a bowl and make sure it's always cleaned. Again with the keeping to the wild thing, don't give her commercial mouse food it is too fatty (even for pet mice) and you will get her wanting something she won't get on her own + it will pose a danger to pets in the future if either her or her pups smell somethig similar in a home with pet rodents with similar food. Give her dandelions and grass and some kind of wild bird seed mix. Protein would be good, this do give her some scrambled eggs or dog kibble, car kibble is super high in protein content for the size of the kibble and could cause kidney problems. You said you have her pineapple? Don't anymore. Stay away from acidic/citric things they are very bad for rodents. Fruits are very sweet and are more of a snack so I would stay away from them in general in this case. Give her lots of shreds of paper to nest. The pups are supposed to be tucked under her like that when she is there, they are probably nursing. If she is with them and not eating them then she is not harming them. If she wanted to she would eat them, which would be brought on by lots of stress. So try not to lift the box again as she doesn't know you. It might be tough but act as they don't exist they need o remain as wild as possible to make it later. Definitely do not take them to a pet shop because of someone who wishes to breed mice buys one well it could mess up many years of hard work in already existing lines they are not domestic at all and carry many disease unlike pet mice it would be very bad. Four weeks on the dot is usually the separating time frame because after that the males have matured and will impregnate females so this would probably be a wise time to let them go so they can start to learn how to win a female over in a more realistic way then just in a tank or something. Please do not keep them longer then this they will not learn how to make it in the wild and again please stay away from them as much as possible.
I can answer questions regarding mice as pets, mouse behavior, color and coat genetics, breeding techniques, and general health questions. I can help with caging and setup, nutrition, social issues, and what to do in most mouse emergencies (such as unplanned litters, injuries, fighting, etc.). I can also assist with questions pertaining to orphaned mouse pups, weaning litters, and questions of mating and birthing. I cannot answer questions about exotic or wild varieties of mice such as spiny or pygmy mice.
*****FOR EMERGENCIES, anything requiring immediate medical intervention, PLEASE take your mouse to a professional veterinarian or wildlife rehabilitator who works with mice as soon as possible!
Raising Orphaned Mice: http://www.rmca.org/Articles/orphans.htm
Orphaned Mice Videos: http://www.youtube.com/user/CreekValleyCritters/videos?query=raising
Natasha's Your First Mouse: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNK4uqNZTbA&feature=share
General Mouse Help: http://www.fancymice.info/
Mouse Info and Exotic Breeds: http://www.hiiret.fi/eng/species/
I have enjoyed the companionship of mice nonstop since 2004, and spent a year caring for them in a lab where I learned a great deal about their breeding, social needs, and health. I spent a few years breeding them, specifically working with albinos, marked mice, angora mice, and satins. My education never stopped - I am learning something new every day from current and well-established research thanks to the wonderful folks at the Jackson Laboratory, as well as from my wonderful mousey friends online. I also love learning from my terrific questioners here on AllExperts - you folks keep my passion for these amazing animals alive and well!
Organizations East Coast Mouse Association - expired,
American Fancy Rat and Mouse Association - expired
Education/Credentials Partial University for a B.S. in Microbiology,
Partial University for a 2-year degree in Veterinary Technology (RVT cert),
C.E. classes in pathogens, aseptic technique, genetics, and applications