AboutDave Combs Expertise Can: Nearly all low-power and some high-power rocketry questions.
Can't: Anything that approaches violations of NAR/TRA safety codes; advanced high-power rocketry questions beyond L1 (I'm still learning those myself).
Experience NAR Level 1 high-power certification; BSA Space Exploration Merit Badge counselor; many years of experience in building and flying rockets from mini-motors (A3-4T) up to H impulse.
Organizations National Association of Rocketry; NAR Section 703 TORC in Dayton, OH.
Thanks!
And if you have any suggestions of good starter kits that incudle everything, then please let me know
(under 100$)
thanks
Answer First, let me say I'm glad you're getting into the rocketry hobby; you're going to enjoy it.
The Astra III Starter Set gives you everything you'll need for a good while. It includes the launch pad and launch controller, which you'll need regardless of what low-power (A through D engine) rocket you build. The starter set also includes engines, igniters and wadding, so all you need now is a 9-volt battery for the launch controller and you have a complete system.
Now, let's talk about the rockets:
The Astra III, which comes with the starter set, is a perfect first rocket. It has few parts including a plastic fin unit (sometimes called a "fin can") which installs onto the body as one piece. I would definitely start there.
The Astra (the blue and white one) is essentially the same rocket; the only real difference is that the fins are individually die-cut balsa wood fins that must be glued onto the body tube. This is a very good second rocket, because gluing on fins correctly is a fundamental building skill.
Finally, the Starhawk (the black and red one) is built essentially the same as the Astra III in that it has a plastic one-piece fin can (but with a different shape). You won't learn anything new building this rocket, but you can get it just because you want it.
The A6-4 motor value pack is fine; you certainly shouldn't lose any rockets in the clouds. You can launch the rockets you've selected in a reasonably small field (about the size of 2 football fields). BE SURE TO READ THE MODEL ROCKET SAFETY CODE, which should be included in EVERYTHING you are buying, to understand what field conditions you want to avoid (trees, power lines, houses, etc.) and how to launch safely.
About the wadding: Wadding's purpose is to protect the plastic parachute from being damaged (melted) by the hot ejection charge in the engine. Each kit will have instructions on how to do it, but here's the basics:
1. Install the engine into your rocket.
2. Take the number of sheets of wadding suggested by the kit's instructions (for the ones you've chosen, it will be 2 or 3) and crumple the LOOSELY into a ball, and then push them into the open nose cone end of the body tube. The idea is to have the wadding loose enough to prevent any hot particles from reaching the parachute.
3. Fold the parachute as instructed, and load the shock cord and the parachute into the body tube.
4. Slide the nose cone into the body tube.
And you're ready to fly!
You may not need to buy extra wadding; the engine value pack you bought has plenty of wadding for the rockets you're using. But when you run out, here's a tip that will save you a lot of money in the long run: You can use cellulose attic insulation (the flame-resistant, grey, recycled newspaper type) as wadding. The principle is the same; get enough to isolate the chute from the ejection charge (about the same volume as paper wadding). Even if you get just one bale of wadding, it will likely last the rest of your life for just a few dollars. This insulation material is available at any major home improvement store (Lowe's, Home Depot, etc.).
Welcome to the hobby, fly safe, and most of all, HAVE FUN!
