Motorcycle Repair/1987 kawasaki ke100 wont run
QUESTION: Sorry for not getting back to you ive been active in the us military and had to go to the base for 3 days but as regarding your last answer I dont have them tools is there any other way to check the timing also im sure you're aware but I have a 2 stroke all due respect but they cant get out of time can they?
ANSWER: Hello Nick,
Nice to see you back...
You're right. Two strokes generally can't get out of time.
Your bike though, can, because the intake is controlled by a rotary valve, which needs timing.
Anyway, I was talking about ignition timing not valve timing, and that's because you mentioned
If I could get my hands on it? that's a different story...
I would check rotary valve timing too, especially if the clutch cover have been removed.
But let's get back to ignition timing which is responsible for the weak (yellow) spark.
Normally, the contact breaker gets worn-down and the ignition timing alters.
Without tools to check it though, there's not much you can do.
Assuming that although you've disconnected main switch connector and engine stop (kill)switch
you're getting the same weak spark and the bike doesn't start, there are several things to be checked.
Contact breaker, capacitor, stator coil and ignition coil, to name the most troublesome.
So, follow the instructions on my previous answers, and let me know the results.
There is a practical way to check ignition timing, with a lamp or buzzer, but allow me to refer to that thoroughly (make a sketch for you too) on my next follow-up.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: I might have actually found the problem I pulled my flywheel off and found that the key was sheared and altw the keyis sheared it still turned the flywheel so now im wondering if that might have caused the weak spark
Not only affects the spark strength, but the ignition timing too!
As it is 02:55 in Greece now, I'll get back to you later with detailed instructions on how to set the contact breaker opening.
Let me describe to you how to properly adjust ignition timing by the contact breaker.
First, you need a battery. It doesn't matter what voltage or type, as long as you have an appropriate lamp for it. It can be a 1,5V AA/AAA battery and a common led diode.
Connect one terminal of the lamp to the battery and a piece of wire to the other.
Connect another piece of wire to the free battery pole. You could connect crocodile connectors to the free ends of the wires for ease of use.
Now you have your "special tool"
Disconnect the wires coming out of the stator.
Connect one wire end of the "tool" to the Black terminal, stator side.
Connect the other one to the crankcase.
Now, if everything is O.K., while turning the rotor (counterclockwise) the lamp will go on and off.
Locate the "F" mark on the rotor and a notch on the cover/crankcase.
Turn the rotor until the lamp lights up, then continue slowly and stop when it goes off. At this point, F mark and notch should align.
If not, proceed as follows:
Locate the contact point securing screw (Image 1) and lightly loosen it.
Align "F" mark and notch, place a flat-head screwdriver to the adjusting slot (Image 2). Twist screwdriver counterclockwise until lamp is on, and slowly clockwise just until it's off. Tighten securing screw and check. Repeat procedure as/if required to fine tune.
Disconnect the tool and connect back all wires/connectors.
Start the engine and check if a lot of sparks come of the contact points.
If the engine doesn't start, ask someone to hit the kick-starter, while you watch the contacts.
If they DO sparking, you'll have to replace both the contact breaker and capacitor.
I hope I was helpful and don't hesitate to get back for anything that's bothering you.