AboutNancy B Expertise One of my all-time favorites. I`ve been there more than 10 times (for at least a month each time), done the tourist loop five times and travelled to several permit-only areas. Aside from the Yangon, Bago, Inle, Kalaw, Mandalay, Pagan, Pyay route, I`ve travelled twice to Sittwe, Mrauk-U and the Chin areas and then down to Ramree Island, Ngapali and Pathein. Been on the wonderful boat from Bhamo to Mandalay and sojourned in the south a bit past Moulmein. Most recently I trekked in the northern Kachin state, camped and stayed with the Rawang tribe, for 2 weeks on the way to Phonekan Razi to see the Himalayas from the east. I`ve taken nearly every mode of transport--trains, planes, buses, boats, bikes, oxcarts, trekking on foot. I can answer logistical questions about airfare, hotels, restaurants, trekking, trains, restricted/open areas and, especially, cultural/religious sites and their significance.
Experience The world is a fascinating place and nothing reveals this more thoroughly than exploring faraway lands. I've got a penchant for the exotic, a friendly face and a true curiousity about the people, art and life.
Question 1. For a trip in January 2010, I am looking for some interesting sites/people/culture in Mon State - south and east of Thaton: caves, monasteries, monks, natural features, river travel, unusual ethnics groups, traditional boxing, etc.
2. I will be in Thailand in September/October 2009 and would like to cross over at Mae Sai up to Kengtung for some trekking for up to six days(Mae Sai back to Mae Sai). Do I need a Myanmar visa since the time in Myanmar will be greater than allowed by your-mentioned 3-day pass(your posted 03/05/09)?
Thanks,
Michael
Answer Hi, Michael!
Should be a great trip (but be forewarned, it gets pretty hot!)
2. first 'cause it's easier. The bad news is you'll have to fly into Yangon and then up to Kengtung if you want to trek there for six days . . . and then you're legally limited to a certain distance from Kengtung. You could try working out a permit deal with a good travel agency in Myanmar, like WATT or Myanmar Himalaya (see former posts), but it'll cost ya! (About $80USD per day). From the land border at Mae Sai, you can get a three-day pass. So unless things have changed (which they always can), that's the latest.
1. I had a ball in this area and love Mawlaymine (Moulmein). Most folks, of course, stop at Kyaikto (the Golden Rock). You go through Thaton, but there's really nothing left of it's former colonial glory except a few colonial buildings and a pigeon-infested pagoda. It's hard to believe that Martaban/Mottama had any significance (but it did!) in the old days, because this ferry jumping-off point has reverted to its former tiny village self. (Note the Martaban jars, huge water jars, everywhere.) Moulmein is delightful with a wonderful riverside market, colonial buildings, grand mosques, Indian influence, temples on the ridge and huge old colonial guest houses to stay in. There's also a 140-yr-old distillery, but you'll probably have to get permission from the Ministry of Tourism to visit. (It now produces Mawlaymine Rum and Mandalay Rum.)
South of Moulmein, near Mudon (after two rather regular roadside pagodas . . .and careful of road bandits if you're in an individual car . . . don't drive at night), is a fabulous lying buddha (I saw being built, with tiny brickloads on monks' heads) that is supposedly the largest in the world.
As far as I know, boxing's not that big in this area (and is general, is more popular in Thailand). The Mon are a fascinating ethnic group (though not necessarily in appearance, dress or vestiges of culture) because it was their art and artisans that were brought to Pagan (and Thailand) and created such a rich legacy. The best site I know on general Mon facts is: http://www.dmoz.org/Regional/Asia/Myanmar/States_and_Divisions/Mon_State/
In the state are: Bamar, Kayin, Rakhine, Chin, Kachin, Shan and Pa-O, but from Kyaikto on down (if you're not heading east at the junction), you'll mostly be in a Mon area.
If you get to the war cemetery in Thanbyuzayat, you can also see ngapi (fish paste, and also sauce) production. There are some interesting fishing villages on the coast and some pagodas famous for their festivals (by not particularly arresting). There are also rubber factories (near the cemetery), mineral mines (near Mudon) shipyards, paper mills etc. in the area, but you won't be allowed to see them, unfortunately. You might get to see salt production on the coast.
The main river is the Thanlywin, but while boats run up-river to Pha-An (and may not take foreigners), only little boats run down, though you may be able to persuade a local. Basically, the forests and hills are in the east . . . the sand banks, plains and mangrove swamps are on the west coast. Technically, the train goes to Ye and foreigners are forbidden to travel overland past Ye . . . but I have never heard of anyone successfully taking that train! Setse and Kyaikkhami beaches are at turn off roads to the west from Thabyuuzayat. No way is any gov't person gonna let you go east from there and get near (the famous smuggling point of) Three Pagodas Pass.
Transport around this state is hard! Get your own car/driver or be prepared for VERY slow travel!!
Have fun,
Nancy B
