AboutNancy B Expertise One of my all-time favorites. I`ve been there more than 10 times (for at least a month each time), done the tourist loop five times and travelled to several permit-only areas. Aside from the Yangon, Bago, Inle, Kalaw, Mandalay, Pagan, Pyay route, I`ve travelled twice to Sittwe, Mrauk-U and the Chin areas and then down to Ramree Island, Ngapali and Pathein. Been on the wonderful boat from Bhamo to Mandalay and sojourned in the south a bit past Moulmein. Most recently I trekked in the northern Kachin state, camped and stayed with the Rawang tribe, for 2 weeks on the way to Phonekan Razi to see the Himalayas from the east. I`ve taken nearly every mode of transport--trains, planes, buses, boats, bikes, oxcarts, trekking on foot. I can answer logistical questions about airfare, hotels, restaurants, trekking, trains, restricted/open areas and, especially, cultural/religious sites and their significance.
Experience The world is a fascinating place and nothing reveals this more thoroughly than exploring faraway lands. I've got a penchant for the exotic, a friendly face and a true curiousity about the people, art and life.
I'm getting a lot of conflicting information about the boats form Sittwe to Mrauk U and back.
1. I'm interested in taking the slow diesel boats in both directions. These seem to be on a charter basis only and the rate for the whole boat (less than 4 people) are ~$200-$215US for the trip to/from Mrauk U. Are there any of these slow diesel boats on a regular schedule basis. If so what days do they run and how much per person?
2. According to the Myanmar blueprint guidebook (published 2006) the Zwenadi fast ferry ($20)may have stopped operations. They ran on a daily schedule. Do you know if they're still operating and if so what is their scheduled days of operation? and cost per person.
3. Lastly the government ferries. Unfortunately, this may be our only option. Do you know what days they run from Sittwe to Mrauk U and from Mrauk U to Sittwe?
Is it best to just go to Sittwe and make arrangements from there?
Is it safe to presume that I can get some sort of transport to Mrauk U for the following day?
Are there any travel agents or transportation sources you can recommend in Sittwe?
Regards,
Vaughn
ANSWER: Hi, Vaughn,
Hmmm, interesting. Why would you prefer a slow diesel boat to a government ferry? And whereever did you get these rates? Also, when are you going? Because the size of boat that can navigate depends on the river levels and times of day for the tides.
1) I'd recommend taking the slow or fast government ferry to Mrauk-U from Sittwe (5 to 8 hours, which one depends on the day of the week)and chartering a boat back. Fuel prices may have gone up a bit since I did it, but I paid $35USD for a private charter (for just one!) so that I could come back in the afternoon (when water levels are usually too low for the government ferry). I simply went to the dock in Mrauk-U (with snacks for the trip), negotiated and hopped on. I will say at some point there was an engine problem and we were stranded, but only for about 40 min.
2) Blueprint? You mean Footprint? Anyway, as I said, my experience is the fast ferry was still running, but only on certain days.
3) The government ferries usually run every day, but sometimes only in the morning. And yes, I'd just go to Sittwe and make arrangements. If you need any help, go to the wonderful folks at the modest Prince Guest House. (I'd also recommend staying at their place in Mrauk-U.)
And yes, usually, you can get transport the next day.
But don't forget Vaughn, nothing is set in Myanmar . . . especially in light of the recent protests and difficulties. The government can decide at any time to clamp down, cancel certain things, or make certain areas inaccessible. I will say the Mrauk-U area especially (and Sittwe a bit less so) has always maintained a little more of a remote and independent stance. But it also has smuggling (and official gov't) trade with Bangladesh and things can shift.
Also, hope you're not going in the summer when it's crazy rainy!
Have fun!
Nancy B
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Thanks Nancy. That was an amazingly quick response from you.
We plan to travel to Myanmar for the month of January and would be in Mrauk U during the first week.
The information I have, from a Myanmar travel agent, is the government ferry only runs 3 days per week in each direction. From Sittwe to Mrauk U, it's Monday, Thursday & Saturday. From Mrauk U to Sittwe it's Tuesday Friday, Sunday. Perhaps that's the current schedule and they increase their runs or add a boat during the busier tourist season.
Do you know if this is the case?
I got the rates from two separate travel agents located in Myanmar. One was for $215US (for the whole boat <4 persons) to/from Mrauk U if you had a 3 night stay. This was only for the run to/from Mrauk U and no other side trips. Also, it did not include any transfer to/from the boat. The other agent quoted me a price of ~$100US per person from Mrauk U to Sittwe. This included all transfers to/from the boat, lunch in Sittwe and transport to the airport. This boat allowed you to catch the Air Bagan flight out of Sittwe the same day.
2. No, there is a Blueprint guide to Myanmar. It's not much on details but a very concise point form book listing very brief descriptions of attractions & activities, accommodation, food & beverage, transportation. It also has a number of city maps and pictures. Actually its focus is on accurate city maps. Here is their web site: http://www.tools4fools.info/
I still have the old footprint guide when I went to Burma 9 years ago. It was good for its time but obviously out of date for logistical stuff.
3. Thanks for the advice I'll leave all the boat arrangement for Sittwe and check things out with the people at the Prince Guest House.
Regards,
Vaughn
Answer Hi, Vaughn,
1) The travel agent should know the current ferry schedule, I'd take their word for it. But I do think they're either taking a HUGE markup on the boat, or using a fancy boat (like independent tour groups use). Personally, I'd just negotiate for the boat when I get there. That's a silly price, but I guess is the advantage is it accommodates tourists who want to fly out same day.
2) Saw the blueprint guide, though didn't see a publisher. The maps are interesting, though I hope some are at a larger scale than some examples. The information seems pretty basic. (Eat at the Sun and Moon restaurant in Mrauk-U for Burmese food.) For the areas that Lonely Planet covers (like Mrauk-U), I prefer Lonely Planet . . . but now that Lonely Planet doesn't cover permit-only areas, this seems a viable alternative. (I wasn't recommending Footprint, btw, I don't care for them at all.)
Have fun!
Nancy B