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About Sylvia de Rijke
Expertise
My name is Sylvia de Rijke and I have a Nail Art Academy and Training Centre in Bangkok. We are the exclusive distributor of EzFlow, IBD, Super Nail, ESN, Seche, China Glaze, Lash be Long and Clean+Easy in Thailand and other countries in SE Asia.

Experience
Acrylic nails, gel nails, waxing, manicure, pedicure

Organizations
Dasy Design International Co.Ltd.

Education/Credentials
Global Master Educator for EzFlow Nailsystems and Elite Master Educator for IBD Gel
Nails.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Spas > Nail Care & Manicures > acrylics are peeling!

Nail Care & Manicures - acrylics are peeling!


Expert: Sylvia de Rijke - 5/14/2008

Question
hi,
i am having trouble with acrylic nails.
the nails are peeling at the edges, why would this be?
i make sure there is no shine on the nails, i use an acid free nail primer and i make sure all my tools, equipment and hands are disinfected.
i also make sure that the acrylic isn't touching the skin.
do you have any ideas?

thank you for your time and help

Sam

Answer
Hi Sam,

Sorry for my late reply, just got back from the PC doctor with this message in the patient if you know what I mean.

As I do not work with acid free primer I do not know if that might be the reason so try one with acid just to see if that might be it.

I have copied our trouble shooting menu and step by step using EzFlow products after that for acrylic nails.

If problems do not cease to exist please contact me again.

All the best from Thailand.

         TROUBLE SHOOTING ACRYLIC NAILS

Acrylic peel/lift
Acrylic on surrounding skin or cuticle cause lifting.
The nail plate is not clean, remove the ptyergium.
Use 2 coats of EzBond and 2 coats of Primer.
Use Primer sparingly.
Pregnancy or medication can cause lifting on a client who previously has had no such problem.
Never give a client a manicure/pedicure before Acrylic application.

Cracking
Acrylic not applied thick enough.
Don’t use White Tiger 100 grit on top of Acrylic.

Skin irritation
Acrylic applied on the cuticle area.
Too much Monomer at the cuticle area (work too wet) Avoid skin contact as much as possible.

Breaking nails
Acrylic nails are too thin at the stress area.
If you are using a tip, is there enough glue on the tip? Is the glue separating from the tip, and placing stress on the nail? Is the product separating from the nail?
If so pay attention to the primer application. Do not get primer on the tip!

White Spots
If you have white spots in the Pink part of the nail (nail plate) then you use not enough Q-Monomer. You work too dry!! Try to add more Q Monomer to your brush, take a ball of Acrylic and wait till all the powder is completely wet. Then apply it to the nail.  

 
Application Guidelines for
Nail Extensions with the aid of Nail Forms:

1.Set up your table and disinfect it with Nail Perfect Table Disinfectant.
   Wash your own and your clients hands and brush your nails with Body Spa
   Wash. Dry your own and your clients hands and disinfect with Nail Perfect Hand
   Disinfectant.

2.Remove the nail polish from your clients nails with Rainforrest Non Smear Nail
   Polish Remover.

3.Gently push back the eponichium with the round edge of your Pro-Pusher.

4.Remove the pterygium with the sharp edge of your Pro-Pusher.

5.Using the Grey Fox Pro-File, shorten the natural nail and round off the corners for
   a perfect fit with the tip. Remove the shine (natural oils) from the nail plate by
   filing up and down from the cuticle towards the free edge.

6.Remove the dust with a sanitized manicure brush.

7.Make a choice of Nail Forms for each individual nail. (Universal, Square or Oval)

8.Curve the Nail Form by rolling it between your fingers.

9.Make sure there is no space between the Nail Form and the Nail.(This may
   cause discomfort  to your client, when acrylic gets under the nail)
 
10.Apply EZ-Bond twice on the entire nail plate. Make sure you reach every corner,
    EZ-Bond is not harmful to the skin.

11.Carefully apply 1 coat of primer, making sure it does not come in contact with the
    skin, for primer is an acid that can damage and burn the skin. Take of as much
    primer as possible by pushing your brush against the bottle and blot on a nail
    wipe. Also make sure you only apply primer on the natural nail.(tips will yellow
    from the primer) Let it dry well and then apply a second coat.

12.Ball 1:
    Using White, Truly White or Competitors White, apply ball 1 on the free edge of
    the Tip, evenly pushing the product over the free edge with the belly of your
    brush. Press well to achieve full contact and to eliminate the chance of air
    bubbles. Push the sides up to create the base for a beautiful smile line.
    
    Ball 2:
    Place a second smaller, right of the middle and push towards the right side wall
    and upwards, wipe your brush and finish the smile line with the point of your
    brush.
    Ball 3:
    Repeat this procedure on the left side.
    Ball 4:
    Using Pink, Natural or Clear, apply ball 4 in the middle of the nail bed. Push
    towards the cuticle with the point of your brush and then evenly distribute the
    product over the entire nail with the belly of your brush.
    Ball 5:
    If necessary you can use a fifth ball to strengthen the stress area.

13.Check the nail: the sides, the arch and the front view and make sure it is even  
   on the free edge.

14.Carefully remove the Nail Forms.

15.File the acrylic nail as follows:

    A) Use White Tiger Pro-File, to shape the nail and the side walls, keeping your file
     in a straight angle.
    B) Use Grey Wolf Pro-File, to file towards the highest point.(the apex)
    C) Use Grey Fox Pro-File, to eliminate the deeper file demarcations.

16.Use the Sand Shark Pro-Buffer, to eliminate the file demarcations, always
    maintaining the same direction.

17.Use the Killer Whale 3-Way-Buffer or Snow Monkey Pro-Shiner, to buff the nails
    to a high shine.

18.Massage Cuticle Oil Plus into the cuticle.

19.Remove excessive oil with a nail wipe.

20.Apply 2 coats of UV-30 Top Coat or Never Yellow Sealer.  

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