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About Maggie Franklin
Expertise
Professional Nailcare: nail enhancement chemistry and technique, mancuring and pedicuring. I am not qualified to give medical advice or make medical diagnoses.

Experience
I am a professional nail technician with 17 years experience in the professional beauty industry. I am licensed in the states of California (license #M120766) and Colorado (license #8611.) I have been an active member of the online mailing list at Beautytech.com since 1999 where I network with 100s of nail industry professionals around the world. Over the last 15 years I have accumulated several advanced training certificates, including the coveted Creative Nail Designs Master Nail Technician status, and personal training by Tammy Taylor, Tom Bachik, and Tom Holcomb. I briefly joined the competition circuit in 2002, taking first place in the second annual Strut Your Stuff Online competition in the Enhancement 2 category. In 2009 I have decided to make time in my schedule to get back into competition by joining "Team Pink," the competition team captained by current world champion nail technician, Lynn Lammers. I boast several contributions to articles that have appeared in both Nails and Nailpro magazines, including a brief stint as a Nails Magazine Help Desk contributor and now I write a semi-weekly blog for Nails Magazine while continuing to attend tradeshows and continuing education events.

Organizations
Nail Tech mailist list at Beautytech.com

Publications
Nails Magazine. Nailpro Magazine. Blogging for Nails Magazine since September, 2008: http://blogs.nailsmag.com/maggie/

Education/Credentials
CA license #M120766. CO license #8611. CND Master Nail Technician. Tom Holcomb Academy. Personal training with Tom Bachik. Two day advanced training with Tammy Taylor. AEFM certified for use of electric file. HRTE (High Road to Education) in San Jose, CA 2009.

Awards and Honors
2nd Annual Strut Your Stuff Online competition, 1st place in Enhancement 2. Member of "Team Pink" competition team 2009. 3rd place, Novice tip-and-overlay relay at IBS Las Vegas, 2009.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Spas > Nail Care & Manicures > Gel nails.

Nail Care & Manicures - Gel nails.


Expert: Maggie Franklin - 5/21/2009

Question
I had undergone a manicure course a few years ago.  Altough it's not the same thing, I decided to buy a gel nail kit along with the UV curing lamp so that I can do them at home for my own use. I tried them once. The gel started lifting from the cuticle.  1) Should I use a primer?  If so, how do you apply it please?  2) Also, one has to wipe off the excess gel with the cleanser after curing under the UV gel, AFTER EACH and every single application, or ONLY AT THE END before one applies the final UV topcoat?  3) The nail brush is cleansed after usage with the gel cleanser only, or one can use any liquid soap or whatever, because I found it still stays sticky with the gel cleanser only?

Many thanks for your time to answer my 3 questions; kind regards Maggie.

Answer
Might I just say that you have taken on quite a challenge for doing your own nails! Let's see if I can help:

Does the gel you bought suggest using a primer? Some gels work very well with the same types of primers used for acrylic nails, while some have specially formulated base coat gels that act as a primer for their specific system. Whatever your gel recommends, try it.

Make sure your nails are clean and dry, try buffing your nail just enough to remove the shiny surface of you nail, and make sure you don't get ANY gel on your skin! If the gel runs into your cuticles or sidewalls or touches your skin at all, the nail will end up lifting.

Try leaving a little more margin between the gel and your skin.

If you use a primer, do not get it on your skin. Basically, keep any nail products off your skin. Traditional primers are extremely acidic and can cause chemical burns if they get on your skin. If you do get it on your skin, wash your hands with soap and water immediately.

You only need to wipe off the sticky layer AT THE END. When all the layers of gel have been applied. If you wipe between each layer it will make it harder for the layers to stick to eachother and can lead to delamination of the gel. If you are using a system that has a UV gel "topcoat"-- one final coat of gel that dries all the way without a sticky layer, you don't have to wipe off the sticky before you applied it. Wipe before polishing though.

Since I don't know what type of UV gel topcoat you are using-- some are actual gel, just thinner and formulated to cure completely without that sticky layer. Those won't work well over polish, they are just intended to give your nails a final gloss. But some UV top coats are just polish topcoats that dry faster under the UV light-- if that's what you have, then make sure you wipe off the gel before applying it.

Your brush will ALWAYS be sticky! Once the brush is saturated with gel, there is NO WAY to get it all the way out! Especially if your are using a synthetic bristled brush-- which is the most comment type for use with gels.

You need to wipe it with a lint-free pad to remove the excess gel, and store it in a place where it cannot get exposed to light or dust. I use a dark-colored toothbrush holder for my gel brushes and keep them inside a desk drawer. While you are using the brush to do your nails, do not let it get near the UV light. Never try to do gel nails outside in the sun! All light contains UV rays and will eventually cause the gel in the brush to harden. I usually slide the bristles of my gel brush under a dark paper towel if I have to set it down while I'm working.

Good luck!  

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