AboutMaggie Franklin Expertise Professional Nailcare: nail enhancement chemistry and technique, mancuring and pedicuring. I am not qualified to give medical advice or make medical diagnoses.
Experience I am a professional nail technician with 17 years experience in the professional beauty industry. I am licensed in the states of California (license #M120766) and Colorado (license #8611.)
I have been an active member of the online mailing list at Beautytech.com since 1999 where I network with 100s of nail industry professionals around the world.
Over the last 15 years I have accumulated several advanced training certificates, including the coveted Creative Nail Designs Master Nail Technician status, and personal training by Tammy Taylor, Tom Bachik, and Tom Holcomb.
I briefly joined the competition circuit in 2002, taking first place in the second annual Strut Your Stuff Online competition in the Enhancement 2 category. In 2009 I have decided to make time in my schedule to get back into competition by joining "Team Pink," the competition team captained by current world champion nail technician, Lynn Lammers.
I boast several contributions to articles that have appeared in both Nails and Nailpro magazines, including a brief stint as a Nails Magazine Help Desk contributor and now I write a semi-weekly blog for Nails Magazine while continuing to attend tradeshows and continuing education events.
Organizations Nail Tech mailist list at Beautytech.com
Publications Nails Magazine. Nailpro Magazine. Blogging for Nails Magazine since September, 2008: http://blogs.nailsmag.com/maggie/
Education/Credentials CA license #M120766. CO license #8611. CND Master Nail Technician. Tom Holcomb Academy. Personal training with Tom Bachik. Two day advanced training with Tammy Taylor. AEFM certified for use of electric file. HRTE (High Road to Education) in San Jose, CA 2009.
Awards and Honors 2nd Annual Strut Your Stuff Online competition, 1st place in Enhancement 2. Member of "Team Pink" competition team 2009. 3rd place, Novice tip-and-overlay relay at IBS Las Vegas, 2009.
Question Hello, I heard about a nail tip procedure called "glass" tips...I am not exactly sure what this is but, apparently the solution that is used to apply the tips dries so clear and so nicely on the nail that it looks like "glass"...I think it is supposed to be easier on the nails as opposed to acrylic and more expensive...Have you ever heard of this before in all your years as a professional? Is it true? How often have you done it if at all? How well do you like it? Is it worth the money? Is it healthier for the nails? Thank you very much in advance for your time.
Answer The number one myth about nails is that acrylic is "hard" on the nails. This is not exactly true. The product itself is safe for the nails and should never cause any permanent damage. The problem is that all too often, the person who applies the products are hard on the nails! Filing too aggressively-- whether it's with a hand file or an electric file-- can cut into the nail and leave deep ridges or even grind all the way through the nail down to the nail bed. Most damage done during nail services isn't permanent and will grow out with the new nail growth with time. There are some cases where permanent damage has been done by damaging the nail matrix (just below the cuticle, where new nail plate is formed.)
The biggest problem is cheap shops that use acrylics made with MMA (methyl methacrylate monomer-- the monomer is the liquid) this type of acrylic is unsuitable for use as a cosmetic product (such as nails) and is used for more industrial purposes. It is actually illegal in many states and the FDA declared it "poisonous and delelterious" in 1974. Still, it's easily optained from industries other than nails and is incredibly cheap. It also has a reputation for not lifting and so remains popular as a nail product. Unfortunately, it is extremely unhealthful to work with and poses a high risk of causing allergic reaction for clients. Theroretically, no one should be working with this type of acrylic so no client should ever have to worry about how to tell the difference-- unfortunately, this is not the case. MMA has a very strong smell, much stronger than cosmetic-grade EMA acrylic. MMA can be bought as cheaply as $15 a gallon, where high-quality professional acrylic liquids average $200 a gallon. The average price for a full set of acrylic nails in the U.S. is currently around $45-- if you are paying considerably less than that, it's a sign that either the salon is using a very cheap product, or doing very bad math.
Ok. Now, about "glass" nails.
The term "glass" JUST MEANS THE TIPS ARE CLEAR. The two major products available to the nail industry for creating nail extensions are gel and acrylic. Resin (nail glue) is also popular among some techs and clients, but is not as strong as gel or acrylic. So if you go in and get "glass" nails, they are going to use either gel or acrylic to apply them.
I'm guessing this salon will use a clear tip (clear plastic, glued to your nail) then apply a clear product over the tips. If that product is made by mixing a liquid and a powder-- IT IS ACRYLIC. There are a lot of salons out there that are using misleading advertising or just flat out lieing to people about their products. If it's liquid and powder, it's acrylic. "Solar Nails" are acrylic and all too often I am hearing of people getting scammed about "gel" nails that turn out to just be acrylic.
:-) you can probably tell that it's sore point with me and I really really wish I could march into a lot of salons and slap them silly.
Gel is thick liquid, like honey. It is brushed on the nail like polish and cured under a UV lamp. Gel nails are built up of several layers of this gel, with each layer going under the UV lamp to cure. Gel will not harden unless it is put under a UV lamp. If someone says they are using "no light" gels, it is a type of very thick nail glue-- sometimes dried by a spray.
Both acrylic and gels are availabe in colors. All kinds of colors! And no color at all-- so it's entirely possible that they could use a clear acrylic on you. Gel tends to come out very clear with no air bubbles, so when I do "glass" nails I tend to prefer gel for them.
"Glass" nails were popular a few years ago, just another style to wear your nails in. They look awesome with some nail art at the tip! Your natural nail will grow out under them and after a few weeks you'll need to take the nails off and re-apply a new set if you want to keep that true glass effect. Never let anyone remove your nails by clipping or prying. No thread pulled under the nail until it comes off, no plastic nail tips wedged between your nail and the product! The only way to remove product without damaging your natural nails is to either soak the product off in acetone or file it off GENTLY. Many gels cannot be soaked off with acetone. This is part of the reason they harden so clear and glasslike-- the polymers crosslink so tightly that the acetone can't penetrate them. So they have to be filed off. Gel is very easy to file though, you just have to make sure that you stop filing before you start filing into the natural nail.
Whew! That's a lot of information, isn't it? Well the short answer is that it ISN'T going to be "better" for your natural nails. Gel is more expensive than acrylic, so gel services should cost more. It's entirely up to you as to whether it's worth the extra money or not, because you're mostly paying for a look, not a product.
Glass nails can also be done with acrylic. Many acrylics on the market dry to a fabulous glass-like clear. Also, sometimes glass nails are called "crystal" nails.
