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Nissan Repair/Nissan Maximum Climate Control


QUESTION: We have a 2000 Nissan Maxima and have been having trouble with our Climate Control Panel. This sounds like a no-brainer to me, but we want to make sure before we spend $250.00 on this part. The problems started with the air only blowing out at the maximum matter what number we turned the dial to. The direction dial still worked (defrost, head, feet, etc...), it just blew out at max speed.

Then a week later, everything stopped working. It didn't matter if we had the air set to blow out at defrost, floor, head, etc. The air would blow out a little bit if we had a window rolled down, but it was extremely light... just enough to feel it on your hand.

Now, the rear defrost button and the circulation button are all part of the same climate control panel and both of those push buttons still work fine. Is the climate control panel the problem? Thanks in advance

ANSWER: Hi David -

The cause for the "MAX only" speed for your A/C is the rheostat, or resistor for the switch. This is located along the firewall of the vehicle, or somewhere in the ductwork inside under dash passenger side. The part itself is only about $20, and labor takes about 5 minutes max.

Please look into this before spending hundreds of dollars.

Hope this helps -

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: That makes sense about the "max only" air flow, but will this fix the problem of nothing working at all? Like I said, we can't get the system to cut on at all now. The only thing that still works on the panel is the rear defrost and the circulation button.

ANSWER: Hi David -

Yes. The circuits are all connected. I would change the rheostat first and I think you will be good to go -


---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Sounds good and thank you so much for such a quick response to both questions. Another issue has popped up if you wouldn't mind. We bought a 2006 Chevy Cobalt at auction last week and I'm kinda beating myself up that we didn't take a closer look. Anyway, the main problem that I'm worried about right now is the suspension.

Anytime you get up to 55mph, there is a violent shake that continues until you either go above 60 or back down below 55. The car had General Brand tires on them that were completely chopped up, so I put a new set of Uniroyal on. It didn't fix the problem. I don't believe it's the alignment, as the car has no pull whatsoever. I took my hands off the wheel for a good 10 seconds and it took me straight as an arrow. Now, the guy that put the tires on did say that the back-passenger wheel looked as though it had been welded. (It has aluminum wheels) He said this could be the cause. Do you think this is possible?

Hi David -

If you feel the vibration on the steering wheel, this is typically the idler arm, tie rod, or even the struts.

Easiest way to check is to lift the car until the tires are off the ground. Check the side to side play and if there is substantial movement, check the above components.

If the entire car is vibrating, then it is a different issue. Were the rear wheels balanced when you replaced all the tires?


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Calvin Iwashita


All general car repairs for all models of vehicles, except technicals (overhauls) on A/C systems and transmissions.


16 years as a car mechanic from 1974 to 1990, and still repair cars on the side.


High School and college graduate

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