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About Tony Gallagher
Expertise
I can answer questions on all interior and exterior painted surfaces. Ranging from new plaster and woodwork to galvanised metal, rusty metal to exterior render stucco, All external timbers from solid oak to tannalised fencing. I have specialist knowledge on Flame Retardent products for Combustiable and Non Combustiable surfaces. Although some product knowledge of Car finishing I do not feel I have enough experience in that field to be able to offer knowledgable solutions.Colour queries are welcome but I have not got a design background and can only answer semi technical questions with regard to colour.

Experience
Fourty years selling decorative products on behalf of major manufacturers such as Permoglaze,Crown,Macphersons,Johnstones, Leyland,Sikkens & Sadolin. More recently in a merchant capacity I have been involved with Dulux, Farrow & Ball and Fired Earth products. I have recently commenced training in enviromentally friendly product ranges, such as vegatable oil paints and varnish.

Organizations
PDA (Assoiciate Member)

Education/Credentials
H N C Business Management. Several In House achievement certificates for product training.

Past/Present Clients
Ford Motor Company. Nissan, MOD, Home Office, The University of Sheffield, Local Goverment.

 
   

You are here:  Experts > Style > Interior Decorating > Painting & Wallpapering > ?paint over faux tile fiberboard wall covering

Painting & Wallpapering - ?paint over faux tile fiberboard wall covering


Expert: Tony Gallagher - 5/15/2009

Question
I have bathroom walls that are constructed of fiberboard designed to resemble tiles. I hate the pattern and color! I wonder if paint will adhere to it and if there is any way, short of replacing the walls, to remove the tile pattern. I thought about possibly applying drywall mud but am not sure if that would adhere either.

Answer
Dawn,

Yes quite a problem and as you identify adhesion is the key!!!!

You can certainly over paint but this will leave the pattern of course.


There is one other thing you could try that is cross lining with a high grade such as 1400,1700 or even 2000 grade. The trick is to hang horizontally starting from the top and leave a .25mm gap rather than butt joints. this creates a blank canvass.

No matter which you choose you will have to apply a  barrier priming coat.
My favourite range of products are made by Zinsser and easily available on the Internet.

They act like a double sided tape adhering top the substrate and allowing any finish you require.


Hope this helps.


Regards,



Tony.


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