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About Rev. Dr. S.August Abbott
Expertise
Certified Avian Specialist; Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council member; Own animal rescue org; National Wildlife habitat #66378; bird care, nutrition & behavior consultant; International Assoc. of Animal Behavior Consultants Associate; National Wildlife Federation Leaders Club member; published bird care, info and behavior articles and guides. Ongoing education in exotic bird behavior and nutrition I can answer behavioral, nutritional, environmental, characteristic/personality questions as well as general health and health care. No animal emergency can ever be addressed on the internet. We cannot see your animal, perform an examination, provide necessary care or medication. Please value your companion for the priceless, living creature they are; not for what you might have paid for them.

Experience
Certified Avian Specialist. For more than 30 years I've worked with veterinarians, protective facilities, nature centers, preserves and on my own in providing care and education with regard to multiple animal species, including raptors (hawks, kestrals, owls, etc) and marsupials. In recent years I've focused on parrots, usually rescued from abusive or less than ideal situations and helping educate owners as to proper care. Expert in behavior studies and modification of problem behavior.

Organizations
4AnimalCare is the organization I run as an animal ministry; World Wildlife Association, Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, National Wildlife Federation Leaders Club and more

Publications
Bird Talk Magazine articles about rescued and problem macaws.

Education/Credentials
Doctorate, Ordained Minister

You are here: Experts > Animals/Pets > Pet Birds > Parrots > african grey parrot

Parrots - african grey parrot

Expert: Rev. Dr. S.August Abbott - 11/11/2009

Question
QUESTION: We are considering adopting an 18 y/o African grey. how often does it need vet care and does it need vitamin shots?

ANSWER: Let me give you too much information rather than too little ok?

As for vitamin shots? Absolutely not. No vitamins in water either. A bird needs these things from their food in order for their body to process it correctly. Other methods of delivery are not necessarily safe and may be extremely dangerous.   Never trust pet store products or their claims. They can say anything, with very little regulation or control.

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Establishing a vet is important to do right from the start. Ideally within a week or two of getting your new companion.

Yearly check ups should suffice afterward, but twice a year is better since you can get nails and wings done at that same time.

Now for the 'extra' tips I hope help:

When we bring a bird into our homes, no matter how old they are or what conditions they came from, we may have to start with them like they’re brand new.

It’s not unusual for some birds to be very friendly and cooperative the first few days or even week - they are totally dependent on us as new providers and they don’t want to be shunned, rejected or hurt.

Taking your time and letting the bird learn you, adjust to their surroundings and ease into sharing life with you – is by far the better choice. Even if the bird never learns to truly trust, at least to live in peace, comfort and care is a huge accomplishment.

Start by providing the largest cage appropriate for the species of bird you have. Include 3 different types of perches (suggested): 1 natural wood perch, 1 rope perch and 1 ‘rough’ perch for grooming (concrete, mineral, etc.). Never use those sandpaper perch covers. They do not provide secure grip and can result in injury; plus, they just don’t do anything worthwhile.

Perches should be of varying widths as well, from where the feet wrap ¾ of the way around, to where the feet wrap ¼ to ½ way around. The rope perch will likely be chosen for sleep/nighttime; the concrete/rough perch should not be placed where the bird is forced to stand on it without other options (such as to eat or drink). They’ll choose the perch when they need it.

Approach the cage when the bird is calm. Be slow, keep your movements smooth and don’t raise your hands above your own shoulder level – or above the eye level of the bird. Speak with a soft voice and give the bird time to calm down and accept your presence. If it doesn’t adjust relatively quickly, back away until it calms down – the last thing we want is for the bird to injure itself by flailing around in fear.

  Remember, patience.

I approach our new additions (usually abused birds entering rescue/rehab) an hour or so after tucking them in for nighttime. Their cages are covered on all sides, leaving just ½ of the front uncovered so they can see out and feel secure. It also insures decent air circulation.

The room light would be very dim, but not totally dark. Most birds have poor night vision, unless they’re nocturnal birds like owls and approaching them in total darkness is frightening to them.

  At this time, whispering, putting a hand up against the cage and just holding it there is a start. Remember, keep it non-threatening and below their eye level.

  When you notice them calmly stretching a wing and leg slowly out to the side and back, mimic the action with your own arm slowly stretching out to the side and softly stay engaged vocally (“what a good bird you are”, “that’s a pretty bird”, etc).

  After just a few minutes of nice interaction, leave them be for their night and the next day use the same tone of voice and slow, calm movements around them.

  Open the cage door (as long as your bird is not panicking and will be safe if they escape, unable to get to places you cannot recover them from) and offer your finger/hand just above the feet and gently touching at the breast area there say “step up”. This command is important to use every time so that when the bird hears it they know it’s time to be on hand/finger.

In an untamed bird there may be some biting and squawking, but if you can tolerate it until they are on hand, you’ve accomplished a very important step. Once up they usually stop biting where they’re perching (your hand) and if they don’t, giving them an “earthquake” a gentle shaking of your hand, but not enough to dislodge them or cause them to feel insecure, will often distract them.

I’ve also found that walking quickly into a different room (which isn’t hard to do with a big macaw chomping down on my arm like a pitbull) will surprise them enough to stop. Suddenly, in new surroundings, I’m their best friend.

  If you cannot get your bird to cooperate right away with hands, remember, you’ve got years ahead of you – it’s worth it to do this right. Try just placing your hand in the cage for a minute and letting them get used to it being there. Having a treat in hand will help make your fingers a positive thing.

  Continue the night whispering and no matter what, don’t give up.

Find out more steps to take by seeing www.4AnimalCare.org/birds

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: in considering this adoption we are out of the house 8 to 10 hours a day. Does this make this adoption a bad idea. The bird presently leaves with an older adult who is moving to a nursing facility

Answer
A lot of people need to work or leave for other reasons for several hours during the day. When you have a single bird, or even a couple of birds, you want to be sure they have regular mental and visual input.

Placing the cage near a window, safe from drafts and with at least ½ of the top and one side covered just in case the sun comes in in a way you aren’t aware of (because you’re not there to see it) and you want the bird to have a safe, shaded spot to retreat to is a very good idea.

If possible, hang bird feeders, squirrel feeders, hummingbird feeders outside of this window for even more interest.

On the inside of the house, consider turning a t.v. in the direction of the cage and play a bird sitter DVD on a loop (repeat play).   Don’t try a regular nature video or turning the t.v. to the nature channels - there are mostly predators shown in these programs and instead of a happy, fulfilled bird when you get home you might have a bird filled with anxiety and behavior problems.

There are actual bird sitter videos sold in multiple locations online, so go ahead and shop around for the least expensive.

Some children’s cartoons are good too, such as toddler age categories without violence or a lot of sudden, fast and big movements.

Be sure there’s plenty of toys in the cage, lots of things to shred and tear apart, foraging toys with bits of healthy nuts or treat pellets hidden inside, etc..

This way you’ll have much more peace of mind about leaving and your bird will be so busy with things to do and watch that the time will fly by!

See more here www.4AnimalCare.org/birds

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